Pavan Jha Profile picture
Feb 12, 2023 25 tweets 17 min read Read on X
#WeekendTale Reality is stranger than fiction

Last week while talking at an international conference on Insolvency organised by ILA, had mentioned this in the context that some real life stories are even more interesting than cinema.

This strange one surely is a Film in Waiting
#Delhi hearts & "hides" some very interesting chapters of our History.

The long dense SouthRidge Jungle in heart of Delhi spans from Delhi Cantt to Jhandewalan.

Every day almost a few lacs people travel on the ring road alongside the #MonkeyForest [Shot from ITC Maurya Rooftop]
Next morning after my session, I got up early on Sunday at the Sunrise, as the Delhi jungle was just in front of me. I really wanted to explore a poignant tale of the History, with a twist of a Dark Comedy. After crossing the Simon Boliver statue, I could see a narrow entry point
The entry point of the narrow muddy track (cemented track in next lane) takes you through the jungle to a small hilltop which hosts a 14th century old isolated structure, which is totally invisible to daily commuters, the entry point is fenced by an army of monkeys & pigs #Delhi
I had to put down my phone cam to protect it from snatch of monkeys. I am told people don't go alone inside just for fear of monkeys in Delhi #Monkeyforest, many even rule the entry. I desperately wanted to go in so took chance Decided to go in without disturbing them,they helped
I was wanting to go in as I was awestruck by the very interesting history of the place by @EllenBarryNYT in her fascinating piece in @nytimes in 2019 titled The Jungle
Prince, as it enforced my learning of "reality stranger than fiction".

It Is

Read
nytimes.com/2019/11/22/wor…
#Delhi old timers have lived by that story, though more as myths, vfabricated anecdotes & masala stories with their own sprinkles but @EllenBarryNYT did a commendable research of documenting her meetings with Prince Cyrus, & then exploring factual pages of history in Lucknow & UK
Her piece is an exceptional amalgamation of history, poignency, strange events, pain of partition, a woman fighting for her rights & making NewDelhi Rly Stn as her home for 10+ yrs & then a twist of dark comedy.

It was her piece that gave me strength to see that page of history
With that strength & urge to see, explore & experience it, I went in, alone, through the army of monkeys. Nothing was visible from the entry point or even till the hilltop

The haunting ambience can be experienced in the howling, the fights and the weeps of the Monkeys all over twitter.com/i/web/status/1…
As I moved in, almost a kilometer up on the top, There was no one.. Absolutely No human anywhere in the sight. Unbelievably Soothing Silence for #Delhi at its heart, as there were almost hundreds of noisy vehicles on the main road just a few dozen meters away. strange but true.
The troubling voices of #Monkeyforest was slowly turning into a comfort zone, away from the Delhi noise
I kept moving up & suddenly a big historical robust structure called "Machla Mahal", standing tall for centuries was unveiled to my eyes. An amazing & beautiful surprise It was
Just to summarize the modern history of Malcha Mahal (मालचा महल), developed as a royal hunting lodge in the 14th Century by Tughlaqs. A begum "Begum Wilayat Khan" with her two kids arrived at New Delhi Railway Station in early 70s, claimed to be d last descendant of Oudh dynasty
She claimed the place and wanted Malcha Palace as her residence from Indira Gandhi government in early 70s. Her demand was rejected So she made waiting room of New Delhi railway station as her Temporary home for next 10+ years & kept fighting for the cause rejecting other offers
In 1984, the then IndiraGandhi government finally gave up to her fight & allotted her this hidden place at the heart of Delhi where she moved in with her now grown up kids and a few Nepali servants as guards. The family lived in isolation completely disconnected with the society twitter.com/i/web/status/1…
Indian media and even Indian people were completely banned from entering the track with a fence, trusted guards & an army of 10-12 dogs. No one could enter the place despite trying hard even Newspapee & TV teams. Only very selective international media was invited once in a while
The intl media including NYT, WAPO continued to report about the family while the family continued to live in isolation.

Beghum Wilayat Khan died in mid 90s.

Her daughter, Princess Sakina got married & went out of India

Prince Cyrus stayed alone with his trusted guards & dogs
Prince Cyrus died a death in isolation in 2016. Princess Sakina had already departed to the other world by then. The family lived & owned the palace for more than 3 decades

But @EllenBarryNYT in her search for truth found that the family had nothing to do with Oudh Dynasty. NYT
Ellen could actually trace Prince Cyrus's elder brother in Britain. The brother revealed that their mother was mentally disturbed, especially after Partition & her being a BeghumofAvadh was her Figment of imagination. Begum had even spent a few months in asylum b4 coming to India
It was a dramatic twist which I call a dark comedy one as Media, Bureaucracy & the government had fallen to Begum's claims without authenticating. Thanks to @EllenBarryNYT for chasing the truth yet her story also carries human face of the family, d tragic partition & its wounds
5.02.23
I stayed at the palace for 45mins, with absolutely no sight of any human being in the vicinity. Its completely deserted now, truly a haunted mansion. While descending back to the normal world I was wondering, How come such a place in the heart of #Delhi can remain hidden
I'm sure the place has visitors and explorers occasionally, just like me and must have been under Govt Radar, hence it was shocking

Delhi Govt's Earth Water station is now located on the same hill on the other side & has no entry fencing, so I didn't venture beyond that point
I was wondering that #MalchaPalace with such history can be easily converted into a busy tourist spot

Yet felt happy that it is deserted, isolated & hidden

As atleast now there is a place in Delhi which the animals can call their Own, avoiding all the human invasion #ThreadOver twitter.com/i/web/status/1…
Tagging some Delhi NCR friends just once as they might have something more to contribute on this @rajshekharis @nirupamakotru @iamrana @miyaamihir @Namrata_Joshi @chhabs @yasser_aks @SukanyaVerma @MinOfCultureGoI @rohitksingh @SatwikAnil
A film/series was actually announced 3 years ago, but have not heard any update since then.

May be @EllenBarryNYT or @MiraPagliNair can have some update on filming of this glorious yet unusual chapter of history..

Malcha Mahal still stands tall in the heart of Delhi

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यकायक अज़ दिल दो चश्म जादू
ब-सद-फ़रेबम ब-बुर्द तस्कीं

किसे पड़ी है जो जा सुनावे

पियारे पी को हमारी बतियाँ



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चूँ शम-ए-सोज़ाँ चूँ ज़र्रा हैराँ
ज़ मेहर-ए-आँ-मह बगश्तम आख़िर

न नींद नैनाँ न अंग चैनाँ
न आप आवे न भेजे पतियाँ #AmeerKhusro



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#Wordle 289 #Yesterday

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सौ हसरतें, पर तेरा ग़म नहीं #g

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