Shefali Vaidya. 🇮🇳 Profile picture
Author, Speaker. Fellow-Ananta Leadership Program, BORI-Infosys Fellow, Convenor-Indic Academy. Love Travel, Temples And Textiles. #NoBindiNoBusiness

Aug 6, 2021, 11 tweets

#Thread. ‘Handlooms are so expensive’ lament women who splurge on fancy shoes but have price issues about Handloom. For #NationalHandloomDay, showcasing the #sutaluga, a pocket friendly weave of Odisha! #MyHandloomMyPride @TexMinIndia @HTH_Odisha @odisha_tourism @PiyushGoyal

Badabag in Jagatsinghpur district of #Odisha is home to the slightly coarse cotton single Ikat sarees known simply as #sutaluga meaning ‘cotton saree’ in Oriya. These sarees were once the daily wear sarees for most women in Odisha #MyHandloomMyPride @odisha_tourism @arunbothra

Even today, these sarees carry a modest price tag that ranges between 800 - 2000 rupees. Woven using extra weft motifs and single ikat borders and pallus, #sutaluga sarees are elegant and drape well. This is a typical sutaluga pallu. @odisha_tourism @arunbothra #MyHandloomMyPride

Berhampur and Jagatsinghpur are the only two districts left that still weave the #sutaluga . Badabagh in Jagatsinghpur district of Odisha has more than 150 looms that weave these sarees. Most of the weavers are women. #MyHandloomMyPride @odisha_tourism @TexMinIndia

Traditionally, #jagatsinghpur #sutaluga sarees used to come in a checkered gamcha like design known as #Malapati. Nowadays, though the sarees are woven in many colours with distinctive extra weft Buttas and single ikat borders and pallus. This is a Malapati sutaluga saree.

These sarees are sold by Boyanika and @Odishautkalika outlets. @choicenavya12 also has a good collection. But please remember, #sutaluga sarees are not ‘tribal’ and they are not ‘almost extinct’ with just ‘two weavers left to carry on the craft’. However, they do need patronage.

The #sutaluga sarees are inexpensive, yet elegant, and make great gifts for birthdays and special occasions. To put it in perspective, you can get a #sutaluga saree at the cost of 6 Starbucks coffees! #MyHandloomMyPride

Weavers don’t need charity. They need dignity n fair wages. They need good marketability for products and assistance in selling direct. I hope @PiyushGoyal and @TexMinIndia will work on policy changes, so that a beautifully woven product like a #sutaluga reaches more customers.

None of the #sutaluga sarees I have showcased cost more than 2000 rupees. It takes a weaver at least 2-3 days to weave a saree like this, apart from the time spent in ancillary activities like stretching, warping and arranging the weft ikat threads. Entire family is involved.

Weaving the #sutaluga is a collaborative craft. Cotton yarn comes from mills down south, while tie and dye yarn for borders n pallus comes pre-dyed from Nuapatna, another cluster in Odisha known for single #ikat weaving. See how elegant the saree looks! #MyHandloomMyPride

The #sutaluga is NOT a ‘revival saree’. It has always been around. But it needs greater recognition. These sarees make great work wear, as they drape well and look subtle and elegant. I hope @HTH_Odisha @odisha_tourism and @TexMinIndia work together to make the #sutaluga popular!

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