Arjun Kumar Profile picture
Jul 2, 2019 14 tweets 13 min read Read on X
Explored some parts of #Punjab over the weekend. Pics of the fort at #Bathinda, the current standing structure of which is mentioned as the oldest existing fort in India. Some of the material used, though, has been dated to the Kushan period. ImageImageImageImage
The bulbous bastions of the fort at #Bhatinda are similar to those I observed in another desert fort in this region some years ago - at Bhatner, in Hanumangarh, #Rajasthan. Perhaps a common feature in forts bordering the desert, as a protection in the flat terrain. ImageImage
While the antiquity of the fort at #Bathinda is highly debatable, what is sadly clear is that the fort is on its last leg. The walls are crumbling to the extent that access to them has been barred for visitors. Image
Nxt stop after #Bathinda was the village of Bangrian in #Sangrur. Where in a state dept-protected compound stands a 19th century cenotaph. With beautiful murals within. Interesting depiction of Hanuman meeting Rama and Laxmana. Look at the faces in the depiction. #Punjab ImageImageImageImage
Some depictions of Krishna, faded and damaged, but still beautiful. From a cenotaph at Bangrian village, #Sangrur, #Punjab. ImageImageImage
Entering #Sangrur reminded me of Lt Gen Harbaksh Singh, hero of 1965 and earlier wars. Sadly, there is little to remind one of the Gen in Sangrur today. It has a few old structures which have survived, such as this clock tower. Image
Highlight of #Sangrur is the heritage in Banasar Bagh. A marble baradari built by rulers of the Jind state, believed to be a replica of a baradari built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh at Lahore. Access to the baradari was barred, so this pic of the gateway will have to suffice. ImageImageImageImage
Every state needs a chronicler of its history. Few are lucky enough to find one. #Punjab has an able chronicler in @subhashparihar, one of the finest historians in India today. Apart from Punjab, even #Haryana has been covered by him in considerable detail.
My first exposure to @subhashparihar's work was his monumental book on #Sirhind. In 2007, I lugged the book around with me, while walking through fields to explore sites. Sirhind, the focal point of Fatehgarh Sahib district is a great heritage site and no book covers it better. Image
Which is why, it was a huge honour when @subhashparihar personally walked me through the heritage of #Faridkot, #Punjab. It was a fascinating experience, especially since I was seeing places through the eyes of a fine historian. Buildings like this one, once used as a library. Image
Buildings inside the fort at #Faridkot. In a varying state of neglect and disrepair, cracks gradually widening. The owners - last descendants of the former ruling family - live in Kolkata and don't seem to be concerned by the state of their heritage. ImageImageImage
The Faridkot state's car and buggy collection, which seems to include a more recent tractor also. Seemed to be housed in a building with a blue roofed building, hence the peculiar light, Pic taken through a crack in a window glass. Image
Love the design of that porch gateway arch. One of the many features that have been lost in contemporary architecture. This building in #Faridkot fort once housed records. Image
Also in #Faridkot, #Punjab: The cenotaph of a former ruler of the state, Pahar Singh, built in the 1850s. In a compound so overgrown by vegetation that a long shot of the full building is not possible. Site ownership disputed between occupying ppl & ruler's descendants. ImageImageImageImage

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More from @Hiddenheritage

Aug 26, 2020
Been asked what fascinates me abt #Chanderi. More than the fort, baolis, tombs & mosques, Jain rock cut sites & ancient rock art, perhaps what draws me here is the fact that heritage is everywhere in Chanderi. Like this grp of lost temples at Sitamarhi ImageImageImageImage
Spotted in a field outside #Chanderi. Was this structure a shrine or was it part of a walled complex housing a now-lost shrine? It has fragments of icons kept within which probably came from another structure. ImageImageImage
Some yrs ago, while wandering through the area outside #Chanderi, bumped into a sadhu. This person didn't say a word, just kept pointing in a certain direction and off I went... Image
Read 18 tweets
Jun 14, 2020
Beginning a thread on some less-known temples of #Gujarat. These pics are of a grp of 7th century CE temples, Maitraka dynasty, Bhanasara vil, #Junagarh. Lie a short drive frm the coast, on the road that connects #Mangrol to #Porbandar.
A giant stepwell, with four entrances, outskirts of Chobari vil, #Surendranagar, #Gujarat. But perhaps more shrine than stepwell, going by its ornate iconography, including a 12-13th century CE Shesasayi Vishnu. A story I did on this once: timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad…
At Miyani vil, close to #Porbandar, a medieval gateway leads to two 13th century CE temples. One of these, called the Neelkanth Mahadev, remains in worship, despite being in bad shape. #Gujarat
Read 4 tweets
May 23, 2020
Rajgir, #Bihar, once the capital of a powerful kingdom - a kingdom that grew into an empire straddling much of the subcontinent. Today, it is a second-rate town even in its state. But a town dotted with heritage, such as this stupa dated to the 4th-5th centuries BCE.
A pity that the heritage of #Ragjir, #Bihar has been allowed to gently decay sans restoration. This is the shrine of Mani Naga, dated to 4th-6th centuries CE, Gupta period. Now called Maniyar Math, its focal point is a stupa-like circular structure with a hollow core.
Structure called Jarasandh-ka-akhara, #Rajgir, #Bihar. Date unknown. A feature common to many structures here is an elevated platform. There is a site called Jarasandh-ka-teela, in Haryana, a partially excavated stupa site. Not sure of the latter's connection to Jarasandh though.
Read 7 tweets
Jan 25, 2020
#Karnatakatrail: Dusk on a Dec evening found me exploring the Bahmani tomb complex at a village called Holkonda, north of Gulbarga. Structures here being swallowed by the vegetation. ImageImageImage
#Karnatakatrail: The fort at Gulbarga, being gradually swallowed by vegetation. Rusting cannons, crumbling walls. A difficult task for the resource-strapped ASI. ImageImageImageImage
#Karnatakatrail: Unlike neighbouring #Bijapur where stepwells, pleasure pavilions have survived, Gulbarga is dotted with tombs, which are literally everywhere. Like ghosts of a forgotten past! This huge structure looms up in a residential area called Santraswadi. Image
Read 6 tweets
Jan 23, 2020
#Chanderifauna: Some yrs ago, on a cold Dec morning in #Chanderi - my fav heritage destination - I was woken by a persistent knocking on the window. It turned out to be this bird, shot through the frosted glass. Perhaps it was urging me to get up and begin exploring. Image
@MPTourism #Chanderifauna: Spotted this bird - a woodpecker I think - perched nr #Chanderi fort, lost in thought. Was black & white ever as striking as this? Image
@MPTourism #Chanderifauna: Butterflies aren't always perfect, some are frayed, like this one I spotted in the #Jain temple complex in Budhi Chanderi. Image
Read 7 tweets
Jan 7, 2020
An interesting recent addition to the collection, a book that plunges into the historical linkages of a mammoth epic. The connections are perhaps easier to make as I have visited most of the excavated sites mentioned, esp Kaushambi. Image
More recent additions, these from the world book fair, in Delhi. A massive 3-volume listing of #hiddenheritage monuments in #Odisha. Amazed that the govt's publications division was giving this set away at a throwaway price. Image
More from the book fair: the memoirs of Britain's best known WW II commander and a book on personal anecdotes from the war. Image
Read 9 tweets

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