A thread about a love triangle πŸ’ž

Between a holding company of Legacy Brands πŸ‘—

The largest mall operator in the US 🏬

And the worlds largest asset manager πŸ’° Image
2/ This story starts in 2010

Jamie Salter is the outgoing CEO of Hilco Brands (Linens & Things, Polaroid, Le Tigre, etc). He pours $250M into his new venture: Authentic Brands Group

Early acquisitions for ABG were modest, and include small apparel brands and celebrity licenses
3/ ABG makes its first major Legacy Brand acquisition in 2013 by scooping up Juicy Couture for $195M. By the end of the year, ABG is also the owner of likeness and rights to Elvis Presley, Muhammad Ali, and Marlyn Monroe

fashionunited.com/en/v1/fashion/…
4/ In 2016 Simon Properties Group teams up with ABG to purchase mall brand Aeropostale out of bankruptcy and by 2017 500 Aero stores were reopened

A critical point to the storyline is that SPG x ABG swung Aero from a -$100M loss at acquisition to +$80M in net income by 2019 Image
5/ In 2017, a third dancing partner enters the ABG x SPG relationship: BlackRock, who takes a 10% stake in SPG, becoming the second-largest shareholder

BlackRock is the world's largest Asset Management company (currently ~$7.4T AUM) and is widely considered a 'Shadowbank' Image
6/ By 2018 the ABG acquisition train is hitting full speed, with purchases of Nautica, Nine West, and the Camuto Group. Their rapidly growing collection of brands puts ABG into the Top 10 of all licensing groups worldwide

*below rank from 2019* Image
7/ 2019 yields the strategic acquisition of Sports Illustrated

This allows ABG to flank their core business with a valuable media property (see Linear Commerce)

They now also have licenses to Michael Jackson, Shaquille O'Neal and other prominent sports and film figures Image
8/ The successful acquisitions and operation of the ABG portfolio and positive partnership with SPG bring BlackRock to the table for direct involvement with ABG

In August of 2019 BlackRock takes a 30% stake in ABG, and now has heavy leverage and interest in both ABG and SPG Image
9/ In late 2019 ABG saves Barneys New York from bankruptcy

With pockets full of BlackRock capital, SPG x ABG continues its spending spree, this time acquiring fast-fashion brand Forever 21

glossy.co/fashion/authen…
10/ March 2020 brings the COVID Pandemic, shaking up the entire retail landscape and resulting in a heavy demand swing out of B&M/Malls and into eCom

The retail world widely accepts the narrative that malls are dead...

But ABG x SPG x BlackRock doubles down again...
11/ ABG begins to use the accelerated distress facing legacy brands as an opportunity: They form a joint venture with SPG called SPARC

On August 12th SPARC acquires Brooks Brothers for $325M

And days later SPARC snatches up Lucky Brand (both out of Bankruptcy) for $140M
12/ Currently SPG is the leading candidate to acquire JC Penney.

The Department Store is one of Simons top clients and an anchor at many of their properties and an important partner due to co-tenancy clauses

But JCP may also become a massive conduit for ABG/SPARC Brands
13/ In many cases, by purchasing these formerly successful brands out of bankruptcy, ABG and SPARC have been able to take control of the asset while minimizing exposure to debt

This has allowed ABG and SPARC to build a $15B annual rev portfolio at a relative bargain

A few: Image
14/ With the JCPenney acquisition pending, the three (maybe 4) pronged strategy is becoming clear:

1/ Banners - leverage JCP, expand Barneys

2/ Brands - assort Brands into Banners by price/equity

3/ Distribution - leverage Simon properties for scale Image
15/ And the 4th will likely be the deployment of the Sports Illustrated media platform x the iconic celebrity and sports likenesses to help drive content behind these brands and lift them back up to their former glory in the eyes of the consumer
16/ While the retail world runs screaming from the blaze that is Mall retail in the United States

a powerful trio appears to be running in the opposite direction, prepared to fan the flames

and ready to restore the best parts of the American Mall complex to their former glory
As new owners of JCP: Simon, look for a replacement CEO; they cited ABG as a strategic partner in the search

It’s all coming together.

I would expect the new CEO to be first or second degree to the ABG network of Brands Image
Why?

ABG needs to pump their brands through JCPs distribution network, so interests must be highly aligned

Again, just a hunch
To update the above chart. JCP was actually acquired for 1.75B (versus my 2.5 guesstimate)

That’s 1.75B to buy a $10B demand channel

At 5% net income, that’s 3.5 yr payback horizon

β€’ β€’ β€’

Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to force a refresh
γ€€

Keep Current with Digitally Native

Digitally Native Profile picture

Stay in touch and get notified when new unrolls are available from this author!

Read all threads

This Thread may be Removed Anytime!

PDF

Twitter may remove this content at anytime! Save it as PDF for later use!

Try unrolling a thread yourself!

how to unroll video
  1. Follow @ThreadReaderApp to mention us!

  2. From a Twitter thread mention us with a keyword "unroll"
@threadreaderapp unroll

Practice here first or read more on our help page!

More from @digitallynativ

10 Aug 20
This pretty much sums up the state of things

From @packyM and Not Boring
This is one of the more important takes time I have seen, period

It should be read and understood by everyone in the DTC ecosystem

Read the whole post here

notboring.substack.com/p/shopify-and-…
More amazing truthiness
Read 4 tweets
3 Aug 20
If I'm founding a DTC brand today there's only one choice for market positioning:

Luxury

We are undergoing the largest wealth consolidation event in our nation's history, and a continuation of what the digital era had already catalyzed
2/ The pandemic and remote work financially favors those with discrete income/wealth and those who sit behind screens for a living

This divide has been deepening since 1989, coinciding with the digitalization of commerce, a force which has now exploded in velocity

NASDAQ πŸ“ˆ
3/ It is for this reason, that the best place for a new DTC brand to be positioned is at the top of the market

Find the highest priced brand/product in the market. Build a great product with an authentic story and price it 20%-25% higher than the highest competitor

LuxuryπŸ’Ž
Read 6 tweets
27 Jul 20
A thread about LEGO

On overcoming adversity 🧯

On product principles πŸ§’

And on building a distribution channel, brick by brick 🧱
2/ It's 1916 in the sleepy village of Billund, Denmark

A young carpenter named Ole Kirk Christianson leverages his love for woodworking and opens a carpentry business

He finds modest success, producing ladders & stools

But in 1924 an accidental fire burns his shop down
3/ Christianson rebuilds his workshop, bigger and better than before.

This financial risk turns into a disaster when the US stock market crashes in 1929, and a global recession ensues

Ole pivots his shop away from making expensive furniture

towards inexpensive Toys
Read 18 tweets
22 Jul 20
A thread about White Claw 🐾

And entrepreneurship...

🍷
2/ In the early 1970s, a Canadian born recent college grad named Anthony von Mandl landed a wine selling apprenticeship

He quickly parlayed that experience into starting his own wine importation business out of the back of his car at the age of 22
3/ Over the next decade, von Mandl continues to expand his business throughout Vancouver and across Canada.

He moves into a modest office in Vancouver and prudently squirrels away profits

At the age of 31, he purchases Mission Hill Winery northwest of Vancouver
Read 18 tweets
27 Jun 20
One of the DTC Brands I'm most excited about is @eastforkpottery

You may have heard of East Fork previously as the purveyor of #themug which drops every Tuesday at noon and promptly sells out

I recently ordered from East Fork. Here is why they may be the future of DTC πŸ‘‡
2/ East Fork is located in Asheville, NC

Their founding team is comprised of true craftswomen/men and they produce their products on-site, using local materials
3/ Their Pottery is made to order and their site references <8 Weeks as the manufacturing lead time (depends on item)

They are currently servicing so much demand that Pottery can only be pre-ordered beginning July 2nd

This is to keep their 8-week promise
Read 10 tweets
12 Jun 20
Analyzing Lululemon's Q1 2020 earnings presents the roadmap for DTC success

1/ High Gross Margins
2/ Owned Sales Channel Distribution
3/ Sales Channel Agnostic

πŸ‘‡
1a/ High Gross Margins

Lululemon logged a 51.3% Gross Profit Margin in Q1 2020 versus 53.9% in 2019

On the surface, this looks worrisome, but they unpacked the deltas:

Rent/Depreciation: -330bp (unavoidable)
eCom Shift: -110bp
Currency: -20bp

Product Margin: +180bp
1b/ There are two takeaways from the Gross Profit Margin breakout:

1/ eCom is a drag on profitability relative to retail
2/ Lululemon is a product-driven company and ENGINEERS margin opportunity into their products through innovation and superior merchandising. DO THIS ALWAYS
Read 8 tweets

Did Thread Reader help you today?

Support us! We are indie developers!


This site is made by just two indie developers on a laptop doing marketing, support and development! Read more about the story.

Become a Premium Member ($3/month or $30/year) and get exclusive features!

Become Premium

Too expensive? Make a small donation by buying us coffee ($5) or help with server cost ($10)

Donate via Paypal Become our Patreon

Thank you for your support!

Follow Us on Twitter!