Got some messages asking for all my Sicily pictures in one tweet thread so starting this. Here are some of Palermo Duomo at night. I can’t imagine a more beautiful exterior ImageImage
Two more Palermo Duomo pictures, because just two isn’t enough ImageImage
And here is Massimo
ImageImageImage
Will update this thread from now on. Capella Palatina tommorow.
Sicily has so many amazing things to see, but the Capella Palatina might be the most wondrous. The Royal chapel of the Norman Kings was built in the 12th century. ImageImage
It has three main wondrous elements. The ceiling was done by North African craftsmen and has strong Islamic influence. ImageImage
The wall mosaics are done in the Byzantine style, and positively glow ImageImageImage
The floors are done in French Norman style and would not be out of place in a fine Northern European cathedral (sorry no picture). So you have three exquisite styles in one building.
Probably the only other building that compares to CP is Ste Chapelle in Paris, another wondrous smaller royal chapel. Thought SC is a century later and of a unitary design. If I could only visit one church for the rest of my life it would be CP
And yes these pictures are taken while up on the altar. On one of my visits I was the first person inside that day and was invited to take part in the small morning mass to start the day. Spent half an hour staring straight up Image
Sicily pictures day three. Finding this thread both exhilarating and a bit sad. Will shoulder on if people are enjoying them.
Let’s talk cathedrals. If asked to name Europe’s greatest I’m sure people could name dozens; Chartres, Durham, Florence, Cologne, etc, etc. However outside of Palermo is one as great as any, Monreale. Image
Started by the Norman king William II, it is overwhelming in scope where the Capella Palatina is small and exquisite. Image
The mosaics were done by the finest Byzantine craftsmen, and are almost entirely preserved. Certainly I was completely unprepared for their scale and beauty the first time I visited. ImageImage
I think Monreale gives us an idea of what Hagia Sophia must have looked like when it was fully covered in mosaics. There really is nothing like it in the world.
Plus it has a medieval monastic cloister attached full of beautiful intricate carvings. ImageImageImage
When you visit for the first time you will wonder why this is not more well known. It’s just so wonderful. ImageImageImage
Ok getting a little sad now...
Feeling a little guilty that most of my picture are of medieval Palermo. I’m limited to what I have in my phone and took the last three years, and it’s not like I was planning this. All of Sicily is much more than history, both Palermo and Catania are vibrant modern cities.
That being said, here are a few more shots of medieval Palermo. Because CP and Monreale are so amazing and people often stop off in Palermo on cruise ships and run to those two sites, they miss out that there are numerous other wonderful medieval sites to see
One of the most interesting is Zisa Palace. Started by William I in the 12th century, it’s remarkable because it was clearly a pleasure palace and not some fortress. Sort of like if the Kings of Westeros built home in which they could relax ImageImageImage
These pictures don’t do it justice, it had fountains and running water throughout both to keep it cool and pleasant. It had intricate ceilings, sadly the moldings are long gone, but we can see where they were. It was probably the nicest place to live in the Mediterranean.
Palermo is also full of medieval churches, from the Islamic inspired Eremiti which has mosque like features and a lovely attached garden
ImageImageImage
There are also some almost entirely ignored medieval churches in the Kalsa area. Image
And of course there is La Matorana, which has better Norman mosaics than anywhere in the world outside Palermo and would be a wonder anywhere else, but because it’s Palermo you’ve never heard of it ImageImageImage
No more churches tommorow,
Promise.
Will head to central Sicily this morning as being limited to pictures in my phone (just the last few years) means I have nothing from west of Palermo. This is a shame as there is so much to see and do there.
Personal favourites are the Greek ruins in Selinunte. The only surviving large bits of a Carthaginian warship which are in Marsala, the island of Mozia (great Carthaginian era remains) and the fish in Trapani. You will have to take my word on it
However last trip ended up going from Palermo to the centre of Sicily and naturally that involves another of one of the greatest cites in the world, Villa del Casale. ImageImageImage
The finest collection of Roman Empire mosaics in the world VdC is not just a few rooms, it is a massive complex of palatial corridors, small rooms, large rooms, acres of exquisite craftsmanship ImageImage
It might have been an imperial hunting lodge, or at least that of one of the wealthiest members of the Roman Empire in the 4th Cent AD. ImageImageImage
The one problem is that people often go to VdC on day trips from Palermo and Catania and never see the rest of the centre. Tommorow a little on Morgantina; something I can’t recommend highly enough.

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More from @PhillipsPOBrien

14 Oct
Been accused of being an apologist for Scottish independence. As a form of response I will try to do the UK government’s job for them in what I will call: save the union in one step.
One of the great problems the U.K. government has it that they’ve been so obsessed with a particular form of English, Brexit based identity that they have missed that much of Scotland has a strong European identity
To be frank much of Scotland is instinctively siding with the EU against the U.K. government in these negotiations. That is a profoundly unhealthy situation for the U.K.
Read 8 tweets
14 Oct
Last tweet on this issue but @LeaskyHT has hit on a great question. Why has support for independence exploded. I can take a guess as someone who has lived in Scotland for 24 years, though was not born a Scot.
Its probably the same identity politics that have worked for Brexit, but in reverse. Scots had, perhaps more than they expected, come to see themselves as European as much if not more than British. This is the case in particular for the younger generation (people Ive taught)
The reaction to Brexit was therefore far more emotionally powerful than expected, and lead many to question the whole point of the UK state. This has been exacerbated by the terrible peformance of the conservative governments, which have been antagonistic towards Europe
Read 5 tweets
4 Oct
1. A thread on what the Republican Party is now and where it might be going. Would really appreciate feedback from people with an interest in US politics as these ideas are just forming.
1
2. To understand what the GOP is today--these are the most important charts to examine.
Sourced from: news.gallup.com/poll/248525/no…
3. The GOP is now overwhelmingly the choice of non-College Educated Whites--and correspondingly is being abandoned by those with college degrees. This is not a shock to those who have been following the Trump phenomenon.
Read 17 tweets
2 Oct
This might be the most remarkable campaign in US presidential history for one reason--the lack of any significant change since it was clear Biden would be the nominee. Image
Other than Trump getting a small bounce at the beginning of the COVID shutdowns, the race has remained remarkably static. Has there ever been a presidential race with so little change like this?
Makes it seem very unlikely that this will change between now and election date. If so, the only hope for Trump is that the polls are undercounting his support
Read 5 tweets
1 Oct
Have to say these kinds of histrionics say much more about those who write them or spread them than they do about the USA at present.
The USA could have a crisis if Trump loses the election and then tried to overturn the results using the courts with his appointees. That is certainly not impossible considering his own rhetoric and the supine positing of the GOP
However, would bet that is still very unlikely. It’s looking more and more like Trump has galvanised the opposition and the Dems will take the White House handily and have control of both houses of Congress.
Read 4 tweets
30 Sep
A short thread on what is considered dignified behavior in politics, just because its become interesting to me. Will start in 1946. In June of that year, President Truman hears that Senator Tobey of New Hampshire has publicly released a copy of a letter that Truman had sent him
1
Truman, irate, sends Tovey a letter of his own, which the president then releases publicly. In coruscating rhetoric for the time, Truman tells Covey he needs to "cool off"
2 Image
This action by the president appals his own chief of staff, William Leahy, who believed it was "undignified" of Truman as president to get involved in such a spat. You can see the entry from Leahy's diary below
3 Image
Read 10 tweets

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