What makes St Baglans special? Is it the sentient landscape? The ancient, shady mountains that watched humans arrive. The clump of gnarled trees stretching their branches protectively around the church. The ever-changing sea breathing rhythmically, slow and deep.
Or is it the physical reminders of the past that gives St Baglan’s its transcendency? The systems of pre-historic ditched enclosures. The siting of the church within a pre-Christian settlement. The ancient pillar-stone discovered in 1855 built into the fabric.
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Is it Ffynnon Faglan – Baglan’s well – in the adjacent field with its healing powers. The ship graffiti and simple carved symbols that speak of meaning, values and beliefs. The polite, oiled woodwork of the 18th-century families. The close interior. The damp walls.
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But St Baglans isn’t just this list of things. It’s a place that has been formed by “thousands upon thousands of ideas: realisations, hopes, fears and actions…” It is, as Roger Scruton describes, “…saturated with meaning, but whose meaning cannot be put into words”.
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A thin place is Celtic term, an ancient idea of places where the distance between heaven and earth collapses and connection to the divine or to the past becomes profoundly close. These thresholds have long held a place in religion and folklore. St Baglans is a thin place.
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When I visited the atmosphere was soupy with sea mist, low cloud and veiled, looming mountains. It was marvellous, mysterious and otherworldly. St Baglans offers a “rare glimpse into the soul of things”. And part of me has never left.
In 1746 in West Africa, a child is playing on the banks of a stream. He's trying to catch a moorhen. It sounds picturesque, but within seconds this little boy will be abducted. He will be shipped across the globe to North Wales. This is the story of John Ystumllyn.
He is taken far from his home, far from everything and everyone he knows. Eventually, he arrives in Ynyscynhaiarn, Gwynedd to work for the Wynne family. We don’t know what name his parents had given him, but the Wynnes named him ‘John Ystumllyn’ after their estate.
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If you’ve been watching #AHouseThroughTime you'll have seen the story of Thomas, a black boy who was a 'servant' of a family in Bristol until he ran away in 1759. Boys like Thomas often appeared in portraits and still-life paintings in this period.
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England has about 3,000 'lost' or deserted medieval villages. We have churches in a fair few of them. Like St Mary Magdalene, Caldecote: a weather-beaten majesty with embattled parapets, cinquefoil tracery and a rather regal porch.
Entering through the south porch visitors are met by an extraordinary, floor-to-(almost) ceiling stoup. Dated to the 15th century, the shaft is carved with rows of quatrefoils, while acanthus clambers up the canopy. The proportions are so great, it feels very out of place.
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Step beyond this to see the font: an octagonal affair from the same century encrusted with cusped panels, heraldry and foliage. The simple moulded pews also date to the 1400s, as do the glittering fragments of stained glass...
The majestic 15th-century roodscreen fills the interior. It bursts with life: the bressumer trails with vines, pomegranates and water-plant issuing from the mouth of a wyvern. The vines symbolise Christ. The pomegranate represents eternal life.
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The thirty-four coving panels are decorated with seventeen different designs, creating a restlessness. The tracery heads hang like lace. The loft carries a line of twenty-five canopied niches. The carving is the work of the Newtown School of Carvers, Montgomeryshire.
Bertha Kessler and Katherine Hudson were members of the First Aid Nursing Auxiliary in the First World War. However, the shock and stress of war took their toll and by 1920 both women were under psychiatric care.
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Years later, having recovered, they attended a service by W. E. Orchard, which was transformative: “after a 49 minute address… a curtain was drawn back and we were gazing at an altar ablaze with 40 candles... a procession of choristers entered… amid a cloud of incense".
In cobwebbed corners of churches across the country are carved alms-boxes. Many, like this one at Watton, Norfolk, are inscribed, urging passers-by to ‘remember the poor’. For centuries, the collections in these oaken boxes were society’s main source of poor relief.
Two of the earliest poor-boxes in English churches date from the mid-14th century and can be found on Holy Island, Northumberland. However, most surviving ones – many of which are still in use – date to the 17th century.
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Boxing Day has been a tradition in the UK for centuries. Though it only officially got that name in the 1830s… and didn’t become a bank holiday until 1871. 26th December is the feast day of St Stephen – an early deacon who made it his duty to care for the poor.
Wenceslas was a 10thC Duke of Bohemia (his name in his native Czech was Vaclav). When he was a teenager, his mother sent assassins to murder his grandmother, and then set herself up as Regent.
When Wenceslas turned 18 he banished his mother and took control, giving half of the country to his younger brother, Boleslaus. But on 28 Sept 935, his brother invited him to a feast, and then murdered him. 😱
It was all very Game of Thrones!