"The murals of Ajanta are now recognised as some of the greatest art produced by humankind in any century, as well as the finest picture gallery to survive from any ancient civilisation. Even today, the colours glow with a brilliant intensity: topaz-dark,lizard green, lotus-blue"
"Dominating everything are portraits of bodhisattvas of otherworldly beauty, elegance and compassion, eyes half-closed, swaying on the threshold of enlightenment, caught in what the great historian of Indian art, Stella Kramrisch, wonderfully described as "a gale of stillness."
The recently restored "Cave 10 contains a supreme treasure that has only recently been identified: fragments of the oldest surviving painting of the life of the Buddha and an image of the first sermon at Sarnath. Next to the latter lies a depiction of the legend of Udayana"
"The artists of Cave 10 open a window on to an age about which we know little. We see the costumes of this very early period: the king of Varanasi, for example, wears a white cotton tunic of strikingly central Asian appearance, wrapped around with a cummerbund..."
"His guards are bare-chested and are armed with spears and bell-shaped shields decorated with half-moons and shining suns. The turbans of the different ranks are shown with great care and seem to be an important indicator of status"
"So realistic are the faces depicted that you feel these have to be portraits of real individuals. There is none of the idealisation you see in the later images. Instead there is something hypnotic about the soundless stare of these silent, often uncertain, Satavahana faces."
Their fleeting expressions are frozen, startled, as if suddenly surprised by the king's decision to loose his arrow or by the nobility of the great elephant breaking through the trees."
"The viewer peers at these figures trying to catch some hint of the upheavals they witnessed and the strange sights they saw in ancient India. But the smooth, clean humane Indo-Hellenistic faces stare us down"
"The people in these murals appear disconcertingly familiar. 2000 years after they were painted these faces convey w penetrating immediacy the character of the different sitters: the alert guard, the king caught in the excitement of the hunt, the obedient son fetching water"
"Indeed, so contemporary are the features that you have to keep reminding yourself that these sitters are not from our world, they are depictions of a court that vanished from these now bare hills more than two millennia ago. "
"It is eerie to stare into the eyes of men and women who died more than 2,000 years ago; but odder still to feel that their faces are somehow reassuringly recognisable."
Here is a piece I wrote on the dramatic restoration of Ajanta Cave 10 by
Manager Rajdeo Singh, the ASI chief of conservation and head of science at Aurangabad
"Pitalkhora, two hours’ drive to the north of Aurangabad, is believed by scholars to be the oldest Buddhist cave monastery after Bhaja. It lies in a spectacularly wild ravine."
"Plunging cliffs fall to a narrow terrace where a group of chaitya halls have been burrowed into the rock face, hanging like a swallow’s nest high above an arid plateau."
"It is a fabulously resonant spot; yet as with Bedsa it was once clearly a place of great sophistication, connected to the metropolitan centres of its day. Two inscriptions record donations by merchants from Pratisthana, modern Paithan, once the great port of the west coast."
"An hour’s drive from Bedsa, up another precipitous pilgrim’s path, lies the monastery of Karle, which boasts perhaps the most exquisitely wrought hall to survive from ancient India."
"Here the façade of the monastery is filled with lines of stone elephants and, facing them, paired statues of scantily-clad mithuna couples, loving fertility figures, several of them dancing merrily together."
"Despite the sanctity of the site, specifically built to house celibate monks, we are here at times nearer the world of Bollywood than of the otherworldly Buddha that westerners – or the more austere Thai or Chinese Buddhists – might expect to find decorating such a sanctuary."
"The far side of the same spine of mountains that shelters Bhaja also contains another spectacular rock-cut monastery, Bedsa. This is a slightly younger complex, and more remotely situated, high on a narrow ledge up an even more inaccessible valley."
"If you squeeze through a narrow cut in the rock to your right, you find, hidden away along a narrow passageway – as surprising as the façade of the great pink treasury at Petra – a magnificent rock-cut chaitya portico 12m high, conceived and sculpted on the grandest scale."
"Here the capitals are decorated with royal couples riding winged beasts – horses, gryphons, buffalo and elephants – that are clearly distant Indian cousins of those in the great imperial Persian capital of Persepolis."
Seven years ago I paid my first visit to the extraordinary 1stC BCE Bhaja caves- less well known than Ajanta, but no less fascinating, with original wooden features still in place. I wrote this @FTLifeArts piece soon after
"Open to the environment at one end, and entered by a magnificent 9m-tall horseshoe-arch, it still miraculously preserves its ancient wooden roof beams, like the wrecked keel of a prehistoric ark...."
"These wooden shards crown one of the oldest rooms in the world: a ribbed chaitya hall lined with tapering octagonal columns, ending in a rounded apse that encloses the perfect dome of a tall stone stupa."
One last set of Pallava masterpieces from the exquisite Kailashanatha Temple of Rajasimha Pallava dating from 685 CE
The sculptures of the north wall-
L- The Goddess Tripura-bhairavi
Middle- Tripurantaka or Tripurari Shiva, depicted with four arms wielding a bow and arrow
R- Durga on her lion (I think...)
Detail of the Goddess Tripura-bhairavi
North wall, Kailashanatha Temple
Kanchipuram