1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk! Today we're tackling the venerable bead.
Don't be fooled: This. Subject. Is. Huge. 🤯
We're touring the world throug alchemy, biology, archaeology -- and learn how colonialism & slavery figures in.
Featured: Sioux (Teton) woman's dress from 1880.
2 -Like its cousin embroidery, beads are a world heritage art. Beads evolve next to humanity, it seems.
But how beads are treated, valued & traded--and what they're made of--well, that's where things get interesting.
Featured: Helmet - Fang People, late 19th C/early 20th C
3 - Beads are plentiful in archaeology, often long outlasting the threads that held them. These here are probably from Cyprus from 750BC-300BC & I would totally wear them.
Basically, people found shells & shiny things, went “mine” & the Precious was became... wait, wrong story.
I do #ThreadTalk every Monday. I've loved fashion since I could remember, but came to these deep dives through world-building my own fantasy novels (and historical fantasy).
Looking forward to learning more about you all.
I believe fabric culture makes us human, and it's often set aside for the blood, battle, and action.
Yet, I think it really brings us together in so many ways.
It's just that in the wake of colonialism and capitalism, we've lost our way a bit.
In my early career as a writer, I was often snickered at for insisting that the best way into a world--imagined or historical--is understanding their fashion. Because fashion is frivolous and "girly" etc.
But think: Who has access to the goods? Who makes it? Who wears it?
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk, muslin edition. Muslin has been all over my feed, so let me cut to the chase:
The finest fabric in human history was perfected by the Bengali people but tragically lost in the wake of imperialism & economic ruin at the hands of the English.
🤬🤬
2 - Muslin was once called "The vapor of dawn" by a Chinese trader named Yuan Chwang. Other names were "woven wind" & "wonder gossamer" - yet it's now synomymous with Regency period dramas.
There's no way around this: it is not a happy story. But it's one people need to hear.
3 - In many ways, this is a companion thread to my original #chintz talk. Chintz and muslin are both made from cotton & both arose to fame b/c of the art, vision, & craft of Indian weavers.
Muslin is a basic plain weave, that means it's just a warp and a weft. But there's more.
I went for a long hike with @boreasflame today, catching up after way too long, & we discussed my lack of squeamishness, as well as gender (non)conformity, animism & more (as u do).
We took a long route & at the trailhead saw a dude with a pair of shoeboxes.
Not the weirdest, but sure. He spied us with a look of relief in his eyes and said: “I have a weird question for you. I caught something and I need help setting it free.”
This is the kind of thing I was made for. I got really excited & thought maybe it was a snake 🐍!
“Oh, what is it?” I asked. Still hoping for snake.
“I caught a rat,” he said. “And I... I just can’t. The trap is stuck and I’ve been sitting here for 20 minutes trying to get it out.”
A rat! Well, we don’t have many native rats. But maybe it was a pet? I went to see...
1 - It's time for #ThreadTalk. That's right: it's time to dye.
Warning: This feature includes insects🐞, poison☠️, dead bodies 💀, human combustion🔥 & general yuck🤢
And of course colonialism👎. But also gowns! Like this French afternoon dress in yellow & chartreuse from 1866
2 - Most natural fiber fabrics are bit bland at first. Getting them vibrant means the adding of pigment.
Natural wool is often an ivory hue, & it takes a lot of processing to get the right hue. Raw wool pictured below to give you an idea. Carding video:
3 - Red is the color of passion, desire, and… insect secretion. Yes, we get carmine red from carminic acid, a substance we extract from female cochineals. Yum!
Cochineals are scale insects found in the Americas and are often found on prickly pear cactuses.
This fabric art—both fine and folk — is a world heritage art, meaning its inception goes back before recorded times.
So tonight, I’m taking you on a tour around the world.
2 - The word "embroider" comes to English by way Frankish and Proto-German & may mean “braid” or “embellishment.”
From simple decorative stitches to complex beaded patterns, embroidery is often a matter of national pride and identity, too, like this Croatian blouse.
3 - The width and breadth of the embroidery on Earth is striking in variety & beauty. It transcends class, status, and rank & has been used both as symbols of the oppressed and the oppressor.
This hand-stitched Mandarin rank badge is from the Qing Dynasty in China.