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29 Mar, 35 tweets, 21 min read
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk! Today we're tackling the venerable bead.

Don't be fooled: This. Subject. Is. Huge. 🤯

We're touring the world throug alchemy, biology, archaeology -- and learn how colonialism & slavery figures in.

Featured: Sioux (Teton) woman's dress from 1880. An intricate dress from the Sioux, ca. 1880 from the Met Mus
2 -Like its cousin embroidery, beads are a world heritage art. Beads evolve next to humanity, it seems.

But how beads are treated, valued & traded--and what they're made of--well, that's where things get interesting.

Featured: Helmet - Fang People, late 19th C/early 20th C Africa | Man's helmet from the Fang people of Gabon | Bast F
3 - Beads are plentiful in archaeology, often long outlasting the threads that held them. These here are probably from Cyprus from 750BC-300BC & I would totally wear them.

Basically, people found shells & shiny things, went “mine” & the Precious was became... wait, wrong story. String of seventeen beads and amulets in various materials a
4 - These shells from Morocco's limestone caves from the Aterian people may be the oldest on record (84,000 years, y'all).

These are made of Nassarius gibbosulus shell.

That's all a bead is: an object that can be strung for decoration--whether in jewelry or added to fabric. Three shells with perforated holes, indicating they were use
5 - But what are beads made out of? Well, the earliest beads were made of shells, bones, clay & other materials.

They could also be ash, fossils, precious metals & other animal matter (like porcupine quills).

Featured: ca. 9th century B.C., Iran Met Museum - Public domain - Three different types of beads
6 - That said: I am going into some sensitive territory. In many cultures, beads are sacred. Many museums house sacred items that were looted, plain and simple.

I believe museums should return stolen objects, full stop. Looking at you, British Museum.
7 - The Indus valley has some of the most brilliant caches of early carnelian stone beads. Dating from the 3rd millennium BC, they used *chemistry* to make designs.

In Mesopotamia some of them even had poetry on them, or signified connection to rulers or royalty. Indus Valley Civilization carnelian beads excavated in Susa.
8 - The Egyptians gave us faience, that famed glasslike material. You see it all over the place in ancient Egypt, including in scarab beads (more on that later).

More info about faience making here: metmuseum.org/toah/hd/egfc/h…

Featured: Broad collar of Senebtisica. 1850–1775 B.C. From the Met Museum, public domain. Nine rows of faience bea
9 - You can see all kinds of beadwork in jewelry along with the rise & fall of civilizations, as well, often using precious & semi-precious stones (my precious).

These Byzantine 7th Cearrings are a stunning example of pearl beads & sapphires, forged together in this open design. These elegant earrings are decorated with pearls, a favorite
10 - Many new kinds of beads came to the forefront in the Middle Ages, often discovered as a side-effect of alchemy. Italy became the glass powerhouse.

This is also where this story gets really upsetting. And it has everything to do with slavery, trade, colonialism, & greed. ©Victoria & Albert Museum, London - A 13th century square o
11 - Africa has a long history of beadwork, of course, being the very cradle of humanity. Ostrich shells were used early on, and for some African nations, beads are even a form of communication.

This video traces the history of Northern African beads:
12 - Among the Ndebele people, for instance, different patterns are worn during a woman's life.

I'd go so far to say that parts of Africa developed a whole language of beadwork... which became exploited by white slavers and colonists.

Featured: Ndebele wedding blanket. The British Museum, 2015,2011.1 - a large Ndebele blanket w
13 - Beads were so valued, that it became one of the primary payment methods for slaves, labor, and goods. Murano beads from Italy were particularly prized and you'd better believe Europeans went to TOWN.

It gets worse. Roman beads in the style that would be typical of Murano, It
14 - The export volume was so great that slave ships used the Venetian beads as ballast to balance.

Europeans made so many beads for the slave trade that the market collapsed due to inflation.

Millefiori (thousand flowers) beads became known as "African trade beads." No words. A single bead with a flower pattern, called Millefiori, made
15 - In the 19thC, glass beads were introduced to indigenous tribes in the Americas. Already skilled in decorative arts, seed beads found new life.

In my research, this beadwork comes up again & again. In spite of atrocity after atrocity. Cree shoulder bag, 1810. Creek man’s shoulder bag ca. 1810 – 30. Wool, cotton
16 -Let it sink in. We live on stolen land, we are awed by stolen artifacts.

This art has persisted, in spite of better efforts to eradicate it.

This reticule from Mexico blends indigenous designs with a colonialist fashion trend; ca. 1818-1830, A reticule, or holding bag, with beaded motifs in diamonds.
17 - I could share indigenous art of the First Nation and Native American people all day, and perhaps I shall soon.

Here are a few more before we get to some more.

Sioux (Teton) dress, 1870. Vertical lanes of beadwork, in place of the typical horizont
18 - And this photograph of an Ojibwe family, dating from 1902. A family of five, including two small children. Many are dre
19 - What else can you make beads out of? Remember I talked about scarabs?

Beetle beads originated in India. The "sequin" comes from the outer wing of Sternocera aequisignata, and was incorporated into embroidery beginning in the 19th C.

They glisten iridescent green. Sternocera aequisignata - Hectonichus, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wiki
20 - Last week we had a beetle dress. In terms beetlemania in fashion, Lady Curzon's peacock dress is IT.

Designed by the House of Worth, it used zardozi embroidery (another topic we've covered) & beetle wings. It weighed over 10 lbs & was an imperialist statement, for sure. The Peacock dress -- from the Fashion Museum of Bath. A swee
21 - Before we get to the gowns, here are some things I've also discovered as beads:

- Human teeth
- Human hair
- Dinosaur poop
- funeral remains
- dead flowers

In fact, some rosaries are actually made of roses (the practice originated in India).
22 - This is probably my favorite because it's got beetles AND it's been embroidered in India. The lace was made in Limerick, Ireland & then it was all put together in Paris.

It's by a designer called Rouff, and dates from about 1800. A remarkable tea gown that is SO EXTRA. This example is very much a hybrid of influences and materia
23 - This dice bag from the early 17th century says "HIT OR MISS" and let's be honest, anyone in my #DND group would wear the hell out of it. It's a quote from Shakespeare, naturally. The expression 'hit or miss' is first recorded in the Englis
24 - As much as I have a deep, abiding love of vivid, jewel tone colors, I also love brown dresses. I know, it's weird. But I always keep you guessing.

This gown from 1893 combines mutton sleeves with ornate beadwork embellishments for a lot of wow.

It's also got *rhinestones* This is high style dress of the period when sleeves were get
25 - Another earth tone lovely comes from France in the form of this dinner dress. The bodice almost looks Spanish, to me. It is also from the House of Rouff, and the accents of embroidery really bring this all together.

Also that velvet. Yum. Chocolate.

ca 1900-1903. Dinner dress with vest in detailed black and brown beaded em
26 - We can't talk about beads and Western fashion without mentioning the Edwardians. Because they were wild about beading anything--near, far, wherever they are.

Now these are BEADS. Like, no joke here. Holy moly. Dating from 1912, and formerly for sale. An Edwardian style dress with iridescent embroidery on the k
27 - This gown is just the epitome of Edwardian luxury. The three tiers give a sense of movement and the contrast of the red bodice and pale pink is stunning.

The beadwork here is so delicate it's almost like netting in places. Around 1910, leading fashion houses such as Worth created ev
28 - And then, I mean, if you're going to go for beads, you might as well go ALL THE WAY.

This is a beaded jacket - American, 1895. Impractical perhaps, but I do like the murderous vibe it gives off. After my recent research, I know the feeling. A beaded jacket with very puffy satin sleeves. The whole of
29 - And last, but not least (because holy heavens, I have so many sources today) -- this BAMF cape by Pingat in 1895.

These beads are made of JET. And they're so small that they look like sprinkled glitter. I love every detail. The STRUCTURE. The LINES. The SHINE.

Whew. This beautifully constructed Pingat cape gains a rich and el
30 - I hope you look at beads a little differently. There is SO MUCH MORE to this topic, but -- well, #ThreadTalk is just a thread.

Look closely, now...

See? This Pingat cape directly steals from Plains tribes tribal motifs, clear as day. How's that for full-circle? Pingat's interpretation of Plains Indian motifs on this cape
31 - Now it's time for SOURCES. There are... many.

world-archaeology.com/world/africa/m…
usslave.blogspot.com/2011/10/africa…
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aterian
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beadwork
okhistory.org/publications/e…
wildasteria.com/history
artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/beadwo…
vogue.com/vogueworld/art…
32 - Sources... again.
persee.fr/doc/befeo_0336…
native-languages.org/beadwork.htm
powwows.com/native-america…
mnopedia.org/evolution-dako…
mnhs.org/sevencouncilfi…
dp.la/exhibitions/hi…
blog.beadsofcambay.com/the-ultimate-g…
ancientbead.com/Ancient_bead_p…
jstor.org/stable/605624?…
kshs.org/kansapedia/nat…
33 - More sources ... metmuseum.org/toah/hd/egam/h…
beadinggem.com/2009/05/making…
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hair_jewe…
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mutisalah
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kiffa_bea…
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prehistor…
mnhs.org/historycenter/…
wanderingbull.com/native-america…
digitalassets.lib.berkeley.edu/anthpubs/ucb/t…
metmuseum.org/exhibitions/li…
34 - And finally, the last batch of sources.

frockflicks.com/harlots-season…
vam.ac.uk/blog/caring-fo…
vam.ac.uk/articles/india…
digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewconten…
archaeologicalmuseum.jhu.edu/about-us/2014-…
metmuseum.org/toah/hd/egfc/h…
metmuseum.org/blogs/collecti…
kam.illinois.edu/resource/beads…
usslave.blogspot.com/2011/10/africa…
35 - Thanks so much for coming to #ThreadTalk I hope this week you learn to look beyond, to go a little deeper than is maybe comfortable.

It doesn't mean it stops being beautiful; it becomes more complex. Just like human history. One single bead can tell a whole story.

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More from @NataniaBarron

Natania Barron Profile picture
28 Mar
Just a very friendly reminder that I am a *fantasy novelist*.

I am not an academic.

I am not a journalist.

I write stories about magic, witches, monsters, and flirting. Often in sumptuous clothing.

I ask a lot of questions and share the answers I find.
I have no control over what goes viral. I want to keep up, but between my life and job and family, I can’t always. I hate that.

I also have ADHD. And depression. And anxiety. Some days Twitter is too much.

I’m totally ok, but just so y’all remember. I do this for free.
I don’t take sponsorships. I don’t do ads.

It’s just me, sharing my research deep dives.

If I miss a comment or a question, please know it’s not intentional.

I love doing #ThreadTalk and will continue to do it, but just putting this all out here.
Read 4 tweets
Natania Barron Profile picture
24 Mar
That said: also welcome to all my new followers!

I do #ThreadTalk every Monday. I've loved fashion since I could remember, but came to these deep dives through world-building my own fantasy novels (and historical fantasy).

Looking forward to learning more about you all.
I believe fabric culture makes us human, and it's often set aside for the blood, battle, and action.

Yet, I think it really brings us together in so many ways.

It's just that in the wake of colonialism and capitalism, we've lost our way a bit.
In my early career as a writer, I was often snickered at for insisting that the best way into a world--imagined or historical--is understanding their fashion. Because fashion is frivolous and "girly" etc.

But think: Who has access to the goods? Who makes it? Who wears it?
Read 4 tweets
Natania Barron Profile picture
22 Mar
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk, muslin edition. Muslin has been all over my feed, so let me cut to the chase:

The finest fabric in human history was perfected by the Bengali people but tragically lost in the wake of imperialism & economic ruin at the hands of the English.

🤬🤬 18th - early 19th century muslin gown, made in India. A woma
2 - Muslin was once called "The vapor of dawn" by a Chinese trader named Yuan Chwang. Other names were "woven wind" & "wonder gossamer" - yet it's now synomymous with Regency period dramas.

There's no way around this: it is not a happy story. But it's one people need to hear. Closeup of muslin, (c)Victoria and Albert Museum, London - c
3 - In many ways, this is a companion thread to my original #chintz talk. Chintz and muslin are both made from cotton & both arose to fame b/c of the art, vision, & craft of Indian weavers.

Muslin is a basic plain weave, that means it's just a warp and a weft. But there's more. ©Victoria & Albert Museum, London - This robe is said to ha
Read 29 tweets
Natania Barron Profile picture
22 Mar
So. Story time.

I went for a long hike with @boreasflame today, catching up after way too long, & we discussed my lack of squeamishness, as well as gender (non)conformity, animism & more (as u do).

We took a long route & at the trailhead saw a dude with a pair of shoeboxes.
Not the weirdest, but sure. He spied us with a look of relief in his eyes and said: “I have a weird question for you. I caught something and I need help setting it free.”

This is the kind of thing I was made for. I got really excited & thought maybe it was a snake 🐍!
“Oh, what is it?” I asked. Still hoping for snake.

“I caught a rat,” he said. “And I... I just can’t. The trap is stuck and I’ve been sitting here for 20 minutes trying to get it out.”

A rat! Well, we don’t have many native rats. But maybe it was a pet? I went to see...
Read 10 tweets
Natania Barron Profile picture
16 Mar
1 - It's time for #ThreadTalk. That's right: it's time to dye.

Warning: This feature includes insects🐞, poison☠️, dead bodies 💀, human combustion🔥 & general yuck🤢

And of course colonialism👎. But also gowns! Like this French afternoon dress in yellow & chartreuse from 1866 Chatreuse and saffron colored gown from 1866; Met Museum, Pu
2 - Most natural fiber fabrics are bit bland at first. Getting them vibrant means the adding of pigment.

Natural wool is often an ivory hue, & it takes a lot of processing to get the right hue. Raw wool pictured below to give you an idea. Carding video: CC BY 2.0 - Freshly shorn wool, via Wikimedia Commons. A pil
3 - Red is the color of passion, desire, and… insect secretion. Yes, we get carmine red from carminic acid, a substance we extract from female cochineals. Yum!

Cochineals are scale insects found in the Americas and are often found on prickly pear cactuses. British Ballgown from 1875 -- bright carmine red in silk velA female and a male cochineal -- the female is small and sca
Read 25 tweets
Natania Barron Profile picture
9 Mar
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk. This week’s subject: #embroidery.

This fabric art—both fine and folk — is a world heritage art, meaning its inception goes back before recorded times.

So tonight, I’m taking you on a tour around the world. V & A Museum - Mantua - This is a magnificent example of Eng
2 - The word "embroider" comes to English by way Frankish and Proto-German & may mean “braid” or “embellishment.”

From simple decorative stitches to complex beaded patterns, embroidery is often a matter of national pride and identity, too, like this Croatian blouse. Blouse from the Met Museum, Croatia. - Highly embroidered b
3 - The width and breadth of the embroidery on Earth is striking in variety & beauty. It transcends class, status, and rank & has been used both as symbols of the oppressed and the oppressor.

This hand-stitched Mandarin rank badge is from the Qing Dynasty in China.
Read 30 tweets

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