In 928, a pretender to the Khmer throne, Jayavarman IV seized power. He established himself in a massive new temple & palace complex which he set up as a rival capital to Angkor at Chok Gyargar, an inhospitable area with little water about sixty miles north of Angkor.
Jayavarman IV named his new capital Lingapura; today it is known Koh Ker.
Jayavarman ruled the empire for two decades from Koh Ker. At its centre was a great seven-storey pyramid, the tallest in Cambodia, known as Prasat Thom, supporting the massive Devaraja lingam, sixty feet high, probably made of metal, known as “Lord of the Threefold World”.
The capital continued at Koh Ker until the death of Jayavarman IV in 1001.
As one historian has commented, “We do not know the basis of his colossal self-esteem, the nature of his following, or what prompted him to shift the capital from Yasodharapura..."
"Although Jayavarman IV’s extravagant claims may seem hollow or pompous to us, it is clear that, by force or persuasion, he was able to rule at Koh Ker over large numbers of people and in considerable splendor for twenty years."
The site contains over forty temples constructed in this short period. His influence may well have extended into what is now northeastern Thailand where several temples in the Koh Ker style have survived."
The site was a last refuge of the Khmer Rouge and has only recently beem cleared of landmines
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The Khmer temple, tomb, observatory, dynastic funeral chapel and national shrine now known as Angkor Wat was, and remains, the largest Hindu temple complex in the world, dwarfing the temples of Kanchipuram and Mamallapuram that ultimately inspired it.
At Angkor, the temple alone covers an area of over two hundred hectares. Beyond stretches a palace complex, ornamental lakes and the different quarters of the Khmer capital city so vast it can be seen from space.
By the 12th century, the Hindu Khmer Empire was at its height and stretched across the region, controlling with varying degrees of authority modern Cambodia, Vietnam, and much of what is now northern and southern Thailand and Laos.
The temple of Ta Prohm was built in 1186 by the great Buddhist convert, Jayavarman VII, who broke with centuries of Hindu kingship to establish a new Buddhist order at the centre of the Khmer Empire.
An inscription records that the temple was built in memory of his mother, honoring her as Prajnaparamita, and surrounded her with 600 dependent gods and bodhisattvas, though none of these associated icons has been found.
An inscription records that Jayavarman instituted a health care network that consisted of 102 regional “hospitals” that were dedicated to Bhaishajyagura, the Indic god of healing. It had 439 professors, 970 scholars, 66,625 people employed to serve the deities.
In 967 Yajnavaraha, a counsellor of the Khmer king Rajendravarman of Angkor, began work on the tiny, delicate but utterly exquisite Vishnu temple of Banteay Srei, ‘the jewel of Khmer art’ and one of the loveliest temples in all Southeast Asia.
Here there are magnificent images here of Durga dancing her way to victory over the buffalo God Mahisasura “filled with a sinuous pattern of limbs rounded by the sap of youth,” as Stella Kramrisch put it & cycles of sculpture from the Ramayana and the Mahabharat
There are images of Ravana shaking Mount Kailasha; the fire in the Khandava Forest, Krishna killing Kamsa, and Kama, the God of Love, firing arrows at Lord Shiva.
The extraordinary 11thC ruins of Preah Khan Kompong Svay lie about one hundred kilometres from Angkor Wat, and are not to be confused with the other Preah Khan in Siem Reap (famous to some as the location of Tomb Raider.)
The Kompong Svay Preah Khan is one of the last completely unrestored major Khmer monuments- a vast tumble of towers and pillars and lintels, badly looted during the time of the Khmer Rouge, when gangs drove in from Thailand to rob the site of its statuary.
I spent the night camping just outside main gate & woke to hear hornbills, parakeets, bee eater & mynahs chattering & had breakfast amid iron slag, from medieval weapon manufacture- this was the base from which Jayavarman VII marched to expel the Cham from Angkor in 1181.
In 615CE, the same year sculptors in Afghanistan began work on the second Bamiyan Buddha & just as the Sui dynasty was collapsing in China, in the N Cambodian kingdom of Chenla a Shaivite monarch named Ishanavarman I began work on a capital called Ishanapura, the City of Shiva.
Ishanapura in time became by far the largest urban centre in the region. Today it is known as Sambor Prei Kuk.
The city was built on an impressive scale: the southern temple complex, one of three, measured 300 by 270 m. Sunken tanks were accessed by steps.
Today, many of the bricks temples Isanavarman constructed are now overgrown and returning to the forests that surround them
The written history of Cambodia seems to begin in the Mekong Delta at the trading ports of Angkor Borei, Tak Eo, and its counterpart just over the Vietnamese border, Oc Eo.
Here, in the rainy season, a network of canals flood into a wide, sweet-water lagoon that strongly resembles the lagoon of Venice and which leaves the higher hills, like the early temple site of Phnom Da, as conical islands in the stream.
This lagoon became in the 1st century CE, the terminus for a trade route leading Eastwards to India, Persia & the Roman Red Sea ports & Westwards towards China. The Chinese called this area Funan; the Indians, Vyadhapura. We do not know what it was called by its own inhabitants