#Istanbul is a city of endless gentrification. The most recent episode in an endless series of urban transformation projects in the city is the demolition of the old brothels on Zürafa Street in Galata. #Thread Image
42 structures are being demolished in and around Zürafa Street. Most of these buildings, which had been used as brothels for decades, had little historical or architectural value. Image
The demolitions are supposed to clear the area from modern structures in order to highlight Byzantine & Ottoman heritage. This is part of an ongoing project to create a so-called “cultural space” in Beyoğlu. Image
Some of the sites that are being highlighted include two #Ashkenazi synagogues (including the derelict Or Hadash) as well as an #Armenian church (Surp Pırgiç). The remains of an Ottoman-era hamam were also discovered during the demolitions. Image
The details of this urban renewal project are yet to be revealed in full. However one thing that is certain is that the project seeks to erase a major and defining aspect of the neighbourhood’s history, thereby creating a sanitised space for tourism and “cultural activities”. Image
Some of the brothels on Zürafa Street had up to 200 years of history. They reflect the history of the neighbourhood as much as the adjacent churches and synagogues. Nonetheless this part of #Istanbul’s urban history is being razed to the ground as we speak. ImageImage

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More from @kenancruz

Apr 27
The Surp Pırgiç Church in Karaköy, #Istanbul is home to a unique ceremony that takes place once a year. The church was the first #Armenian Catholic church to be consecrated in the Ottoman Empire after the Armenian Catholic millet was recognised by Sultan Mahmud II in 1830.#Thread Image
When the church was first opened in 1834, Istanbul was suffering from a major plague outbreak. A painting of the Virgin Mary & Baby Jesus that was sent to the church as an inaugural gift from the #Vatican was paraded around the streets of Istanbul to ward off the plague. Image
Eventually, as the plague outbreak in the city died down, many attributed this to the miraculous powers of this painting in #SurpPırgiç. Sultan Mahmud II took note of this and gifted a diamond brooch to the church and its congregation. Image
Read 4 tweets
Jan 25
#Ankara is too often portrayed as a model Turkish city, bereft of the cosmopolitan legacies of cities such as Istanbul and Izmir. I wrote about the little known non-Muslim history of Ankara in my first article for
@AjamMC #Thread
ajammc.com/2022/01/24/how…
"Modern-day understandings of Ankara’s history, influenced and shaped by the discourses of Turkish nationalism, seek to paint a picture of Ankara in the Ottoman era as a small, remote, ethnically, linguistically, and religiously homogeneous town."
"In the early decades of the Republic, as the new buildings, boulevards, parks, squares, and thoroughfares of modern Ankara were designed and constructed, the city’s non-Muslim cultural heritage was sidelined, and oftentimes destroyed."
Read 11 tweets
Jan 23
The most exciting restoration/conservation project currently taking place in #Istanbul is doubtlessly that of the long-neglected Bukoleon Palace, an ancient #Byzantine structure built on the shores of the Marmara Sea in the 5th century. ImageImage
The restoration work is being carried out by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality (@IbbMiras) and is set to conclude by the end of this year. The Bukoleon Palace will be converted into an open-air museum. ImageImage
There have been many exciting finds since conservation works began. A 1600 year old fountain (dubbed the oldest fountain in #Istanbul) and thousands of pieces of pottery are among the recent discoveries. @mhrpolat ImageImage
Read 4 tweets
Jan 3
The Jewish cemetery of #Salonica was once the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe, with over 350,000 graves. Its destruction began with the Hellenising policies of interwar Greece and concluded in 1942 during the Nazi occupation of the city. #Thread
Whereas the Jewish cemetery was destroyed and incorporated as part of the Aristotle University, #Salonica’s Dönme cemetery became a football field, and the city’s main Muslim cemetery became the International Fair Ground.
Though the vast majority of tombs in the Jewish cemetery belonged to #Sephardim, there were also many Ashkenazi tombs, as well as some headstones dating back to the Roman era.
Read 13 tweets
Jun 20, 2021
Just finished making this map based on Avraham Galanté’s 1937 booklet on the synagogues of #Istanbul. There were once synagogues (Sephardic, Ashkenazi, and Romaniote) named after all the places on this map that Jews came to the city from. Some of them still exist today. #Thread
From the #Iberian peninsula there were synagogues named after: Portugal, Spain, Cordova, Granada, Aragon, and Catalonia. As well as two synagogues that are still standing today: Jaen / Çana located in Balat) and Majorca / Mayor (located in Hasköy)
From #Italy there were synagogues named after Sicily, Messina, Calabria, and Apulia. There is also the Italian Synagogue in #Galata that is still active today.
Read 6 tweets

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