A year ago I boarded a train in #Istanbul to investigate one scientist's claim of rediscovering Silphion, a legendary herb thought to have gone extinct 2,000 years ago.

It still grows in the heart of #Turkey—and it's delicious.
More in my @NatGeo feature:
nationalgeographic.com/history/articl… ImageImageImage
All involved were able to keep this secret for a year while the Nat Geo team put together this amazing
package. Thanks to @kristinromey @_alicezoo @mallorybenedict Nirupa Rao
For space reasons, this was removed from the article:
"One of the only things silphion wasn’t used as, surprisingly, was a love potion. A close reading of Greek and Roman texts shows no evidence of it being prescribed as a contraceptive or aphrodisiac...
"and a single ambiguous reference to its possible use as an abortifacient."

I go into much more detail on my adventures in Turkey, and the history of the herb, in the Silphion chapter of my upcoming book The Lost Supper. More soon!
As I've mentioned, the current misconception re: love potion/abortifacient qualities come from John Riddle's Viagra-era book Eve's Herbs. The references cited simply don't stand up to examination.
I was honored to be Sally Grainger's sous-chef in #Istanbul. Here I am with Chef and Dr. Miski at the end of a long day of cooking from Apicius... Image
Not to boast, but I do believe that I was the first person from west of the Bosphorus Straits to have tasted Silphion in 2,000 or so years when I chewed on the (pleasantly bitter) resin from the root-ball in Oct. 2021.

OK, kind of boasting...
Thanks again, Dr. Miski! ImageImage
Silphium + Garum = transcendent. An intensity of flavour, and a synergy, that's hard to describe. We all felt a little intoxicated.

This is the Garum Sally Grainger brought to Istanbul. Made by a Portuguese team, and, to be honest, much better than the Flor de Garum from Cadiz. Image
Miski, Grainger and I were privileged to be able to test the taste of this plant; it was part of the confirmation process. There is not enough F. drudeana for humans to eat. We’ll need to propagate it for years. This is an opportunity for study, not another extinction event.
Some people have wondered about the flavor of Silphion. Very hard to describe! The resin is bitter, but the magic happens with retronasal olfaction, when the heady, slightly medicinal pine-forest-like odors really come into play.
I thought of it as a flavor-enhancer, like liquamen or Nuoc Mam, though not operating on the umami scale. Grainger agreed. It somehow kicked dishes from Apicius into the stratosphere—along with liquamen, it’s a missing secret ingredient that unlocks ancient cuisine.
That said, it’s going to take many more kitchen experiments to get it right. As it should be. #Rome wasn’t built in a day.
For now, the list of (putative) Lazarus taxa just got a little longer.

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More from @lostsupper

Feb 9
We succeeded in recreating Neolithic flatbread!

This is about as close as I can figure out how to make bread as it would have been baked in one of the first daily bread-making cultures, ca. 9,000 years ago. I’ll let you judge the authenticity…but the taste is fantastic. 🍞🧵
I should start from the beginning. I went to the Çatalhöyük site in central #Turkey. A proto-urban Neolithic community, pop. as high as 8,000, inhabited for 1000+ years starting ca 7200 BCE.
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In the excavations, I saw the placement of the beehive-shaped ovens and the storage bins that almost every dwelling had. Helpfully, replica houses showed exactly what these looked like.
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Read 30 tweets
Feb 5
Why has olive oil suddenly become a luxury item?

Since I took this photo, in a supermarket on #Italy's Lago di Garda, prices have doubled, sometimes tripled.

Reasons: drought. Bad storms at harvest time. In some areas, a labour shortage.

But another tragedy is happening... 🧵 Image
It's a bacteria that's sickening trees in the south of #Italy. Some of those that are dying are monumentali, thousands of years old...
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The disease, Xylella fastidiosa, is spread by the sputacchina, or spittlebug, and causes the tree's canopies to blacken and wither. Image
Read 7 tweets
Feb 2
It took 4 months of fermentation, but I made my own garum (or more accurately, liquamen)—the ancient Roman fish sauce

To avoid botulism, I did it under the supervision of Sally Grainger, the British author of The Story of Garum. Some of the key steps...
🐟 Image
I started with small, whole sardines, purchased frozen and then left to thaw (from a Portuguese grocery in #Montreal) Image
It was necessary to make couple of cuts to the salted fish with a sharp knife to expose the viscera, permitting the process of autolysis to occur... Image
Read 15 tweets
Sep 29, 2023
The disappearance of silphion is one of the great mysteries of food history. The plant's resin was a secret flavor enhancer, like garum, and worth its weight in silver. But it vanished 2,000 years ago—Nero was said to have eaten the last stalk.
We think we've found it...🌼🧵

Image
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Not to boast, but I do believe that I was the first person from west of the Bosphorus Straits to have tasted Silphion in 2,000 or so years when I chewed on the (pleasantly bitter) resin from the root-ball on the flanks of an extinct volcano.
OK, kind of boasting...
Image
Image
I'm telling the story in a multi-part dispatch on my Lost Supper Substack. You can find it here: Image
Read 4 tweets
Nov 1, 2022
We succeeded in recreating a Neolithic flatbread!

This is about as close as I can figure out how to make bread as it would have been baked in one of the first daily bread-making cultures, ca. 9,000 years ago. I’ll let you judge the authenticity…but the taste is fantastic.
Bread thread 🍞🧵 follows...
I should start from the beginning. A year ago, I went to the Çatalhöyük site in central #Turkey. A proto-urban Neolithic community, pop. as high as 8,000, inhabited for 1000+ years starting ca 7200 BCE. ImageImage
Read 42 tweets
Sep 27, 2022
It took 4 months of fermentation, but I made my own garum (or more accurately, liquamen).

I can now confirm it was under the supervision of Sally Grainger, world's leading authority on the subject, author of The Story of Garum.
Here's how I did it...
🐟🧵
I started with small, whole sardines, purchased frozen and then left to thaw (from a Portuguese grocery in #Montreal)
Then I added salt, "Pope's Salt" from Cervia in #Italy, but any sea salt will do: 20% of the weight of the fish, or 77 grams. #garum
Read 21 tweets

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