Thread by @tristupe

Today, I will attempt to service my ZIPP 1080 hub. Stay tuned for photos and narration. #triathleteonbudget

Why am I servicing my hub? Two reasons, the last and first time I did it myself was before Ironman Malaysia 2019 when the wheels jam while riding. Found out the grease literally finished. Never had it serviced from day I bought as not many want to do it

Cont 2/n

Second reason is because the hub has came loose... ZIPP designed it in such way the wheels will come loose, mine is the generation that was to be recalled, but I missed the boat. For the record, since IM2019 in October, I have clocked 500-600km/month cycling. 5000km since

3/n

Loose? Yeap. Look and listen.

But first... a bottle of Latte won’t hurt

5/n

Removed the wheels. Assessing the damage from the tire tread that went spanking the frame and my ass.

6/n

Yay! Cleaned and checked. No other damage (not expecting but never know). Chain stay never been this clean apart from when it was new ;)

7/n

It’s a bit rough. Otherwise it’s not too bad. Technically all I need to do is just to retighten the clamp that holds the hub and spindle and I am good. But since it is already with the mind to degrease and grease it back... let’s go!

8/n

First remove this by loosening the small Allen screw. Be careful not to fully take it out or lose it. Then unscrew it (counter clockwise), and pull this out. Notice rubber gasket (weather proof)

9/n

Next, pull out the whole spindle. And separate the spindle from the cogs. Take note there is a small thin washer. DONT LOSE IT!

You can see how old the grease it. And the ratchet is pretty dirty.

10/n

Turn the wheel around and you see a gasket there. Pull it out. It’s aluminium. Light. And in red. When you wipe it all clean, One side has a raised indention, that is the OUTSIDE. Need to take note when reassembling.

11/n

Next, wipe all these part clean. I will try not to wash it because it takes time to dry them properly. A cotton old T-shirt works great. Do the same for the ratchet side of the hub. Wipe clean.

12/n

Next I will check for the sealed bearing condition. There are two sets of sealed bearing - one each side. But before that. Where is my coffee.

13/n

Bearing checked. No rough sound. No resistance. Wheel spins freely. ZIPP Engineering. Bear in mind this wheel sets has been ridden more than 5000km (since last serviced myself) and more than that since it was new (from previous owner)

14/n

Now... I am contemplating to wash this and scrub it... decided to just wipe it clean while checking the condition. There is another sealed bearing here. Checked and it’s all ok.

15/n

The ratchet system and how it works. Cleaned it and checked for pitting and any out of ordinary clearance. Seems all good. Will stop here for a while. Need to get ready for lunch at my sister in law. Not gonna rush this. When I continue later, it is about greasing it.

16/n

By the way, NOT washing the cogs and ratchet because drying takes time. And cogs will be dirty the moment the chain touched the cogs anyway. More important to check for wear. It’s all ok! Also, did not remove the cogs as I do not have the tools to do so to remove this!

TBC

17/n

Ok. Lunch done. Sent daughter for ballet, went to buy eggs, pick daughter from ballet sent her for Taekwondo, back, feed dogs, take dogs out for 3km walk. Now back. I have about 30mins to complete this as need to go pick daughter at 7pm

18/n

I further cleaned the ratchet by removing the catch and cleaning the small leaf spring. It’s all ready for reassembling.

19/n

Will use high temperature lithium grease as first coat, then the Teflon grease for the ratchet system, and will live the sealed bearing just a little with synthetic oil.

20/n

Next is to apply “just enough” of the Teflon grease. Too much grease is as bad as insufficient grease. Smear some on all contact point of the spindle.

Don’t forget this 0.5mm washer...

22/n

The next step is the trickiest, you need to slowly press each ratchet in, and use the thinner Allen key to glo press them down while applying a little pressure, the u turn in anti-clockwise and it locks in.

23/n

Apply just a little grease on this part, then put back the red washer, elevated part outwards, lock in the securing ring - do not tighten the ring yet as there is a last adjustment that need to take place.

24/n

Grease the cap a little around the rubber gasket, secure it back in. 99% done. Wipe off access grease that comes out of it.

25/n

The final bid is likely the toughest and trickiest as these items are build to high precision. If you over tighten, there will not be any free play and the hub will seize. Too loose it will have free play. Had to be TIGHT with a whisker of half a hair. So to say.

26/n

Now hand testing it to check for smoothness... as the grease and lubes are fresh, there is hardly any ratchet sound as it’s being absorbed by the grease. Once it evenly distribute, the clicking sound will be back.

27/n

Ok. Need to go get the martial artist from her class. Come back later as I fix it all on the bike and give it a spin!

28/n

I got my timing a bit mixed up. Have a bit of time, so I mounted it and gave it a spin. Check the silent smoothness. As the grease distribute to all moving parts, the subtle but “zippy” Zipp sound is slowly coming back. Compare it to the earlier video!

29/n

One last one to make it 30 tweets. Here is the beautiful melodious sound of a deep dish carbon wheel from Zipp 1080 aka 100mm wheels. #speedweapondry #triathleteonbudget #beonewiththemachine

Tomorrow to do: change the tubular as he rear one has disintegrated. Gonna cost $$$ but will switch the front to back and ride another bike I I head outdoor.

@threadreaderapp unroll please.