Memories of Halebid
(Newly edited shots from 2019)
Hoysala Masterpieces from the Hoysaleswara Temple, Halebid
c1121 CE
The Hoysalas specialised in superb lathe-turned pillars made of soft greenschist soapstone
More Masterworks from the sculptors of Halebidu (apologies for the earlier misspelling)
Under the Hoysalas, the court and temple artists became more conspicuous, often signing their work using the Halekannada script. Dasoja, an artist from Balligavi, for example, figures primarily in Halebidu and Beluru, as does Mallitamma, whose signatures span seventy three years
There is evidence of intense competition between the Hoysala sculptors & occasionally, rather like contemporary artists, they throw insults and curses in each other's directions.
(Newly edited shots from 2019, on show in @vadehraart , Delhi in May and @grosvenorart London July)
I know no more beautiful sets of pillars in all Indian art
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"The murals of Ajanta are now recognised as some of the greatest art produced by humankind in any century, as well as the finest picture gallery to survive from any ancient civilisation. Even today, the colours glow with a brilliant intensity: topaz-dark,lizard green, lotus-blue"
"Pitalkhora, two hours’ drive to the north of Aurangabad, is believed by scholars to be the oldest Buddhist cave monastery after Bhaja. It lies in a spectacularly wild ravine."
"Plunging cliffs fall to a narrow terrace where a group of chaitya halls have been burrowed into the rock face, hanging like a swallow’s nest high above an arid plateau."
"It is a fabulously resonant spot; yet as with Bedsa it was once clearly a place of great sophistication, connected to the metropolitan centres of its day. Two inscriptions record donations by merchants from Pratisthana, modern Paithan, once the great port of the west coast."
"An hour’s drive from Bedsa, up another precipitous pilgrim’s path, lies the monastery of Karle, which boasts perhaps the most exquisitely wrought hall to survive from ancient India."
"Here the façade of the monastery is filled with lines of stone elephants and, facing them, paired statues of scantily-clad mithuna couples, loving fertility figures, several of them dancing merrily together."
"Despite the sanctity of the site, specifically built to house celibate monks, we are here at times nearer the world of Bollywood than of the otherworldly Buddha that westerners – or the more austere Thai or Chinese Buddhists – might expect to find decorating such a sanctuary."
"The far side of the same spine of mountains that shelters Bhaja also contains another spectacular rock-cut monastery, Bedsa. This is a slightly younger complex, and more remotely situated, high on a narrow ledge up an even more inaccessible valley."
"If you squeeze through a narrow cut in the rock to your right, you find, hidden away along a narrow passageway – as surprising as the façade of the great pink treasury at Petra – a magnificent rock-cut chaitya portico 12m high, conceived and sculpted on the grandest scale."
"Here the capitals are decorated with royal couples riding winged beasts – horses, gryphons, buffalo and elephants – that are clearly distant Indian cousins of those in the great imperial Persian capital of Persepolis."
Seven years ago I paid my first visit to the extraordinary 1stC BCE Bhaja caves- less well known than Ajanta, but no less fascinating, with original wooden features still in place. I wrote this @FTLifeArts piece soon after
"Open to the environment at one end, and entered by a magnificent 9m-tall horseshoe-arch, it still miraculously preserves its ancient wooden roof beams, like the wrecked keel of a prehistoric ark...."
"These wooden shards crown one of the oldest rooms in the world: a ribbed chaitya hall lined with tapering octagonal columns, ending in a rounded apse that encloses the perfect dome of a tall stone stupa."