I'm become very interested in yakshas, yakshis and nagas- classes of sacred beings which seem to be relatively peripheral to modern Indian religion and spirituality, but which dominated much of the art of early India, whether Hindu, Buddhist or Jain.
Monumental stone sculptures of Yakshas —freestanding and carved in the round- begin to appear from the third century BCE, as witnessed spectacular yaksha from Parkham near Mathura made “in the guild of Manibhadra by Gomitaka, a pupil of Kunika."
The Parkham Yakshi (left) is said by the ASI to be the oldest free-standing statue in Indian art, c275 BCE, but the Mathura Museum contains several others that are only slightly younger, 200-100 BCE
From around the same time are the Besnagar Yaksha & Yakshi, icons of extraordinary robustness and power and the ancestor of much subsequent Indian statuary. Like those in Mathura they tall, royally attired, well-fed figures, carrying bags of coins, flasks of medicine & swords.
The Bharhut stupa, c120 BCE, is guarded by a series of nearly-life-sized named Yaksha Rajas: “tamed spirit-deities incorporated into the faith as guardians & devotees of the stupas. They stand asmarkers of the Buddhists’ success in taming & converting troublesome spirit-deities"
For each Yaksha Raja at Bharhut, there are Yakshis, standing in perfect poise, voluptuous figures with sloping shoulders, substantial breasts, narrow waists, a rounded stomach with lightly incised folds, wide hips and strong tapering thighs.
The Yakshis of Mathura are the most gorgeous, auspicious fertility figures resembling palace women in their attire and jewellery, with particular emphasis placed on hips and breasts.
The Yakshis association of fertility is often expressed through a special connection between yakshis and vegetation. It is quite common to see the female figure placed alongside trees, resting an arm across a branch or holding a piece of fruit or a flower.
Some of the most beautiful of the Mathura yakshis, the Salabhanjikas, show Ashoka trees bursting into fruit and blossom at their touch “thus symbolizing the transfer  of the woman’s fertile energy to the tree.”
The beautiful, fertile body of these early Yakshis continue to permeate Indian art and thought, cutting across religious boundaries so that images of woman-and-tree are found in Buddhist, Hindu, Jain contexts, and finally, perhaps most gorgeously, in Mughal & Pahari miniatures.
Meanwhile the Yakshas (left and centre) provided the prototype and inspiration for the first monumental standing Buddha image (rignt) of the Kushan period, which significantly developed in Mathura, one of the main centres of Yaksha worship.
The best of my photographs from my travels in search of ancient India will be on show at @ArtVadehra Delhi next month and @grosvenorart London in July
The Yakshi under her tree reborn in Mughal and Pahari court dress
The Mudgarpani ("Mace-holder") Yaksha (100 BCE), Mathura. This colossal statues stand around two metres tall and holds a mudgar mace in the right hand, and the left hand used to support a small standing devotee or child joining hands in prayer.
And yet more late Mughal and Pahari reincarnations of Kushan yakshis under their trees
So many now wish to see the story of Indian civilization as one of thousands of years of conquest, subjugation& destruction. Yet to me it is the continuities which are most striking, & the way that Indian civilization always succeeded in seducing and transforming its conquerors.
This post has shown how the Kushan motif of the Yakshi clutching a tree, first formed in Mathura c150 CE, continued to be painted in late Mughal and Pahari ateliers well into the 19th century.

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More from @DalrympleWill

4 Apr
Exquisitely poised and supple, Chola bronze deities are some of the greatest works of art ever created in India. They stand silent on their plinths yet with their hands they speak gently to their devotees through the noiseless lingua franca of the mudras of south Indian dance.
For their devotees, their hands are raised in blessing and reassurance, promising boons and protection, and above all, marriage, fertility and fecundity, in return for the veneration that is so clearly their divine right.
It is the Nataraja, Shiva as Lord of the Dance, that is arguably the greatest artistic creation of the Chola dynasty. It is the perfect symbol of the way their sculptors managed to imbue their creations with both a raw sensual power and a profound theological complexity.
Read 19 tweets
31 Mar
The Starving Buddha-
Lahore Museum, c400 CE
Arguably the greatest of all Gandharan sculptures
Gandharan Masterpieces from Peshawar & Lahore
(New edits on photos taken just before lockdown last year.)

How I love these spectacular black-schist figures, standing eternally meditating, preaching or fasting.
The physique is magnificent: muscles ripple beneath the diaphanous folds of the Buddha’s lunghi or toga...
Read 8 tweets
29 Mar
Memories of Halebid
(Newly edited shots from 2019) ImageImage
Hoysala Masterpieces from the Hoysaleswara Temple, Halebid
c1121 CE ImageImageImageImage
The Hoysalas specialised in superb lathe-turned pillars made of soft greenschist soapstone ImageImageImage
Read 7 tweets
25 Mar
After yesterday's posts on Bhaja & Bedsa, here is one on the greatest caves of them all- Ajanta ‘nothing less than the birth of Indian art’

"The paintings are possibly the finest surviving picture galleries from the ancient world."

theguardian.com/artanddesign/2…
And a longer Ajanta piece from the New York Review:

nybooks.com/articles/2014/…
"The murals of Ajanta are now recognised as some of the greatest art produced by humankind in any century, as well as the finest picture gallery to survive from any ancient civilisation. Even today, the colours glow with a brilliant intensity: topaz-dark,lizard green, lotus-blue"
Read 15 tweets
24 Mar
"Pitalkhora, two hours’ drive to the north of Aurangabad, is believed by scholars to be the oldest Buddhist cave monastery after Bhaja. It lies in a spectacularly wild ravine."

India’s ancient cave monasteries - on.ft.com/3reozd1 via @FT
"Plunging cliffs fall to a narrow terrace where a group of chaitya halls have been burrowed into the rock face, hanging like a swallow’s nest high above an arid plateau."
"It is a fabulously resonant spot; yet as with Bedsa it was once clearly a place of great sophistication, connected to the metropolitan centres of its day. Two inscriptions record donations by merchants from Pratisthana, modern Paithan, once the great port of the west coast."
Read 8 tweets
24 Mar
"An hour’s drive from Bedsa, up another precipitous pilgrim’s path, lies the monastery of Karle, which boasts perhaps the most exquisitely wrought hall to survive from ancient India."

ft.com/content/e0ce28…
"Here the façade of the monastery is filled with lines of stone elephants and, facing them, paired statues of scantily-clad mithuna couples, loving fertility figures, several of them dancing merrily together."
"Despite the sanctity of the site, specifically built to house celibate monks, we are here at times nearer the world of Bollywood than of the otherworldly Buddha that westerners – or the more austere Thai or Chinese Buddhists – might expect to find decorating such a sanctuary."
Read 9 tweets

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