Last weekend I was fortunate enough to spend a few days in lovely Prague, meeting up with old friends, exploring some Czech Art Nouveau beauty and making a fun day trip by train to Olomouc. Little thread!
The Hotel Central where I stayed is an Art Nouveau masterpiece designed by Friedrich Ohmann and built between 1899 and 1902.
There are still some stunning architectural details inside the hotel, although I'm not so sure about the modern glass seating platform in the old theatre hall (pic 4). The old Art Deco bar has been rebuilt as fitness centre as well.
Meeting up at Kantyna for a couple of pints of Pilsner and some delicious meat. Order at the butcher counter, and the meat will be prepared according to your wishes and brought to your table. Nice surroundings and vibe too!
Prague Hlavní Nádraží (hl.n), which simply means main railway station. Most people enter through the large, modern underground concourse. Lots of shops and a small supermarket here, as well as a cool LEGO model of the station!
Of course, the old Art Nouveau station building one floor up (accessible via platform 1) is much more appealing! Quite sad that many travellers passing through the station's underground concourse have no idea about this and miss out on it..
Some more pictures of Prague's main train station..
My ride: the Leo Express from Prague to Bohumin, although I will only take it as far as Olomouc some two-and-a-half hours away from Prague. Let's check out how the ride on this private operator compares to the Czech national railways!
For 30 euro I'm booked in "premium class" which has only 6 leather recliner seats in a silent compartment at the end of the train. Seats are reminiscent of business class seats on airlines, and the ticket includes free food and drinks served at your seat.
Departing Praha hl.n. station..
There is no @_DiningCar but food & drinks are served at your seat. Choose from the on-board menu, all is complimentary in Premium Class. As this was the morning train I started with coffee & took a pulled pork sandwich (plus prosecco and small dessert) instead of full hot meal.
Some impressions of the scenery between Prague and Olomouc. The ride went by fast, also because the seats in Premium Class are the comfiest I ever travelled in on a train. Excellent as well for a nap if you put them in full recline mode.
Olomouc station, with an arrival 10 minutes late. Tomorrow more about this gorgeous, underrated city!
From the train station it's a pleasant 15 minute walk along a beautiful street lined with stately houses to the city centre of Olomouc.
First a look in the gothic Saint Wenceslas Cathedral. The southern (rear) spire is the highest church tower in Moravia and the 2nd highest in the Czech Republic.
I timed my visit well! A chamber orchestra was practicing before the start of a wedding ceremony.
On the way to the city centre you also pass by the Church of Our Lady of the Snows, which has a fine baroque interior.
Bits of the Art Nouveau beauty of this city also start to show. Bizarrely, the old Art Nouveau hospital building (pic 3) nowadays houses a modern art museum.
The main square of Olomouc is just as grand as the one in Prague amd has the benefit of having 0 tourists around. It's dominated by the landmark column with sculptures of the Holy Trinity and the city hall with its clock tower.
Some more pictures of this gorgeous central square. The northern facade of the town hall also has a 15th Century astronomical clock. And where the one in Prague is mobbed by hundreds of tourists you can view this one without anyone else in sight.
A stop nearby in a traditional pub for some Svíčková (sirloin steak with bread dumplings) for lunch. Can't leave the Czech Republic without eating this.
If you are in Olomouc, do explore the leafy suburban area west of the old town around the Theresian Gate. Lots of gorgeous buildings in Art Nouveau and Eclectic style among others. It reminds me of the most beautiful parts of Prague and Budapest.
Stop for a drink (or perhaps a meal as well as their food looked great) at Moritz, a local microbrewery. If you sit outside, you can admire all the beautiful buildings around you. Even the brewery logo is in Art Nouveau style! Great quality brew too.
It's simply a lovely area to wander around, this part of Olomouc. Imagine living in one of these houses!
Some more Art Nouveau beauty, and even the odd Art Deco building. Olomouc really is a great destination for beautiful architecture. Why don't we build new buildings in these styles anymore? So much prettier than 90% of uninspirational modern glass and steel buildings.
Villa Primavesi is perhaps one of the finest Art Nouveau examples in Olomouc. Has a lovely garden café too. Look at that tilework at the entrance!
Back into the small streets and alleys of the old town of Olomouc..
A last drink at one of the pubs on Lower Square, and it's back to thr train station with a detour through the lovely riverside Petra Bezruče Park.
Next to the park you can also find the equally nice Botanical Gardens. This university town has so much to see and such a nice vibe that I wished I could have stayed here for a second day to do it more justice.
Back at Olomouc station for the ride back to Prague, this time on another private operator: RegioJet.
For 16 euro for the 2.5 hour ride I'm booked in "business class". I'm lucky as I have a mini compartment with 4 leather seats to myself. Ex-OeBB (Austrain Railways) IC cars I believe? Illy coffee, water, tea, juice as well as 1 bottle of sparkling wine are included in the fare.
Again no @_DiningCar but catering is good on RegioJet! The Czech sparkling wine goes well with the surprisingly good quality sushi and the chocolate cake, which were only 4 euro together! Staff regularly walks through the carriage to inquire whether you want smth more.
Stations and scenery between Olomouc and Prague..
It's a relaxed ride - and the views are better this time around (right hand side of the train going from Olomouc to Prague) than on the outbound journey in the morning when my seat faced the other side.
And back at Prague's main railway station while the sun is slowly setting. I can certainly recommend both RegioJet and Leo Express! RegioJet for the great prices and food, Leo Express for comfort and the most fantastic seat you can find on a train. Thumbs up to both!
Quick visit to the nearby Masarykovo station. Just 5 minutes away on foot from the main station, Masarykovo is only used by suburban and regional trains, but it has a gorgeous old world railway vibe.
Inside the station, Masaryčka is a great place for a beer or some good Czech food. Art Nouveau lovers should head to Café Imperial, a Prague institute just a block away from the station (bit pricier though!).
And it's time for the journey back with an early morning bus to the airport. Watch out: you must have a FFP2 mask at this airport in order to pass security. Was caught off guard and had to quickly buy one! The business lounge in Prague is pleasant. Quiet, private, good coffee!
Travelling back to Bucharest on Air France via Paris CDG. Lovely sunrise views on this flight
As my Embraer was parked at the remotest of remote stands and I had only 30-40 minutes to change terminals, go through passport control and board my connecting flight, it was 50/50 whether I could make it. The bus ride to terminal 2F was slow as well stuck behind a baggage train!
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Bucharest Airport on summer mornings is sheer madness. Huge queues at check-in almost everywhere, a long wait at security, and of course no fast track lane. Esp. when flying low costs like Wizz Air, or TAROM & other SkyTeam airlines, you are well advised to come 3 hours before.
Fortunately no queue at my check-in desk! Passport control is madness, but fortunately I know a shortcut. Bypass the queue on the right side, and you end up at automated e-gates which barely anyone uses! Time to relax now in the lounge with a coffee, tracking my incoming flight.
I'm on this Qatar Airways A320 to Sofia, a so-called 5th Freedom Flight (flight between two countries, neither of which is the airline’s home base). Normally I'd take the train, but as part of this trip is for work it's not convenient (would have meant leaving a day earlier!).
Bună ziua from the Dacia, the international train linking Bucharest with Vienna. It's not too crowded, air-con is working. Perfect train for another little domestic trip, as I will get off before we reach the Hungarian border.
After all these years living & travelling to/from 🇷🇴 I finally have the pleasure of a proper CFR @_DiningCar added to my train. Friendly service, fresh salad, filling mixed grill cooked in the kitchen. By no means haute cuisine but I approve! Bottle of white for €6 is nice too.
Great scenery, Boney M.'s 'Rasputin' playing on the dining wagon radio. The proper way to travel, really.
Bucharest Gara de Nord. Time for another train trip across the country!
I'm on the 6.45pm overnight train to Satu Mare in the north-west of Romania in a private sleeper. The train hasn't even departed yet and the starion board already shows a 15 minute delay - quite typical for CFR in the summer and I expect more delays on the long way north!
After a tiring work week, let's make a little day trip out of the city again. This time I'm on a little Transferoviar train to Slanic, which seems relatively empty compared to the packed trains going to the coast.
We have departed!
The first 50 minutes or so is the railway line to Ploieşti, the main south-north axis out of Bucharest on which I have travelled too many times for it being anyway near exciting. Let's just pretend It's Tuscany and my yuk Starbucks coffee is Italian, and it gets a bit better.
Another great example of the (un)practicalities of train travel. I'd absolutely love to do a train trip like this, but it takes forever and the costs (can be a tenfold of a budget flight..
Of course, there is a lot of unfair competition (subsidised aeroplane fuel, high costs for rail) - and I'm sure part of it will be tackled by the EU with their 'new green deal'. A level playing field is important, and basic infrastructure is one of the most important gov tasks.
I just hope that it won't mean that this will remain the benchmark to which aviation is being brought back (with punitive taxes) while train travel remains expensive. One of the main EU benefits has been the ease of travel, breaking boundaries, making it affordable to all.
Just to show the scale of the massive #floods in western Europe, here you have the confluence of the rives Our and Sauer (which forms the 🇱🇺 🇩🇪 border). Left, the picturesque view in normal times. Right, a picture made by a family member just minutes ago..
The water level in the River Sauer (called Sûre in French) was 608.1cm at 11.30am. To put it into perspective, the vigilance level is 350cm and alert level is 425cm.
Elsewhere in the state of Rhineland-Palatinate the situation seems to be even worse. In Belgium it's also precarious - with even a city as large as Liège now being partially evacuated.