It's been a long time coming—four months of fermentation, in fact—but my homemade garum, made under the supervision of the world's leading archaeological authority, is ready. And today is the day I'm going to taste it!
(I've got the phone in front of me, speed-dial set for 911.)
Before I try it—not that I'm delaying the taste-test, ahem—I'll tell you how I made it. (Garum, btw, is an ancient fish sauce that was used in almost all Roman recipes to add "umami" flavour.)
I started with whole Portuguese sardines, aka sprats...
Then I added salt, "Pope's Salt" from Cervia in #Italy, but any sea salt will do: 20% of the weight of the fish, or 77 grams. #garum
Then I added the salt to the fish after a couple of cuts with a sharp knife to expose the viscera... #garum
Challenge was replicating Mediterranean summer temperatures in Canadian winter.
Solution: (suggested by @fmedeats, cheers!) Use seedling mat with a thermostat.
The ideal temperature turned out to be around 31 degrees C.
Then I put the salted sardines in a Mason jar (Kilner jar to those in the UK), closed it, and put it on top of seedling mat in one of those insulated Coleman camping coolers to maintain a constant temperature. Put the cooler in a corner of the apartment, and forgot about it.
Within only a few days, the enzymes in the sardines' viscera liquefied the flesh. No water or brine was added—the fish just digested themselves.
Ancient recipes call for 3 months' fermentation (in open vats, under the Mediterranean sun); modern Asian fish sauces are fermented for 12 months+. I let mine go for about 3.5 months, with shakes of the jar every couple of days to keep everything mixed.
So this is what the sardines were reduced to after 3.5 months of fermentation: a creamy slurry with bones and scales visible. Question is whether the salt has prevented any toxins (botulism, anyone?) from developing.
I invested in a jelly strainer ($15 at the local kitchen store) And poured the mess into the fine mesh. Best done on the front porch—when the kids were at school! There's already been a lot of "Ewww! Gross!" over this experiment.
Drip. Drip. Drip. That’s liquid gold! #garum
My archaeological advisor in the UK suggested I rebrine the solids for a week to squeeze a "second extraction." I've done that, and got an equal volume of liquid out of it. Common practice among value-conscious garum merchants in 1st cent CE, apparently.
The resulting liquid—which the Romans more often called "liquamen" than "garum"—is very similar in colour to this colatura, an Italian sauce made from the drippings of salted anchovies. Colatura, though, isn't fermented (the fish are gutted before salting).
My advisor says the colour—a coruscating gold—is perfect. The smell is somewhere between colatura and Vietnamese nuoc mam. Intensely fishy, but not off-putting. So here goes...my wife has been advised, 9-1-1 is one digit away...
Here goes.
I'm waiting for the convulsions...waiting...waiting...
Damn! That is good! Salty up front, but with that deep-down umami. This is as good as the reconstructed Flor de Garum I had in Spain, better than most Asian fish sauces. Tonight I'm going to be busting out the Apicius to make some *really* authentic Roman dishes. Patina, anyone?
For more adventures in experimental gastro-archaeology, follow me at my *other* Twitter feed, @lostsupper.

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More from @grescoe

26 Apr
This will sound unbelievable to most people. (Not to me!)
A Danish study followed 30,000 people of all ages for 15 years.
Those who cycled to work were 40% less likely to die (of all causes)
over the study period.
buff.ly/3nl4K3D
In his new book, @peterwalker99 shows how even modest amounts of exercise, built into the daily routine, are a "Miracle Pill."
But car-centered, convenience-oriented cities make this very difficult.
We've engineered exercise out of our environment.
treehugger.com/in-praise-of-s…
Astonishing stats from his book: avg. Canadian adult walks only 4,800 steps a day. (Avg. car-free Amish averages 18,500, without thinking of it as "exercise.")
Read 6 tweets
27 Oct 20
Decided to make my family the healthiest sourdough bread possible. (I know, I'm ultimate pandemic cliché.) Started with whole-wheat, locally-ground flour, which I allowed to be colonized by airborne yeast. After 8 days, it was rising and falling nicely, and I had my starter...
Created a levain out of the starter, and combined whole-wheat and rye flour. Discovered new muscles in my back and shoulders kneading the flour. But, during bulk fermentation, it rose beautifully.
Folded the boule, scored it, and after
25 minutes in a Dutch oven at 460 F, followed by 25 minutes uncovered at 430 F, I had this. (Not bad for my first try, if I don't say so, ahem.)
Read 6 tweets
10 Aug 20
Trying something I've always wanted to do: going to a cottage 140 km north of #Montreal without using a car. (Aka #biketothedock) First step: board the métro...
You can take a bike on to the first wagon of the metro... #biketothedock
Looks like I'm not alone... #biketothedock
Read 17 tweets
1 Apr 20
Netflix binges.
Late-night Skype sessions with a bottle of wine.
Stress baking.
With gyms, playgrounds, + pools closed, #covid19 is set to cause another public health crisis: an epidemic of inactivity.
Fortunately, there's one outlet available.
In many, if not most, cities in North America (unlike some European cities, which can be much denser) public parks provide ample room for outdoor exercise, strolling, giving the kids fresh air.
Great North American urban parks were planned after epidemics of TB, cholera, and typhoid—often explicitly to provide city people with salubrious public space to escape crowded neighborhoods.
Read 9 tweets
24 Mar 20
Need your help.
Went to my local bike store today, + they told me they're closing as of midnight tonight. The premier of #Quebec has declared them "non-essential" (while keeping auto shops + government-monopoly liquor + cannabis stores open).
In neighboring province of #Ontario, they remain open, as in NYC (in spite of fact that @BilldeBlasio is fantastically un-woke on sustainable transport).
At a time when many people don't want to take #transit for risk of getting sick, bikes are individualized transport to people who have to get to work safely, with safe physical distancing. (Especially true in #Montreal, which has lately built great separated bike lanes).
Read 8 tweets
20 Mar 20
20 years ago, I was an inveterate traveller, happy to have all my possessions in storage, ready to go anywhere in the world with very little notice.
When 9/11 happened, + planes around the world were grounded, my 1st reaction was selfish: I mourned the fact...
...that I seemed to be about to lose access to the world, and my freedom to travel might be curtailed.
Now in my 50s, with a family, I'm re-experiencing that sense of loss, as #covid19 grounds planes and closes borders.
This weekend, I saw somebody in a park with a cloth bag from a #Dublin bookstore named The Winding Stair, and felt a pang of loss: this shop, unknown to me, was, by the force of things, likely to remain so, for weeks, months, maybe forever...
Read 17 tweets

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