Leaving Lalupawn at half-past 5 on the morning of 4th June, and travelling the whole way through cultivated ground, I reached Ibadan about half-past 10. 
Source: Journey in the Yóruba and Núpe Countries in 1858 by Daniel J. May, Esq., F.R.G.S., Second Master R.N.
Published January 1, 1860
Image: * River Oshun from National Archives, UK
Published January 1, 1860
Image: * River Oshun from National Archives, UK
Between Iwo and Ibadan palm-trees are particularly numerous. I found this route from Ogbawmoshaw to Ibadan much frequented by traders taking sheep, goats, fowls, pigeons, &c, principally from Ilorin and the northward to Ibadan market.
I venture, my Lord, to digress a moment, to remark that one of the principal objects of the journey on which I had now set out was to endeavour to open up direct communication between Lagos or the sea and the trading post at the confluence of the Kwora and Binue.
It was with this view I came so far down the country as Ibadan, as also that from there I had reason to expect being favoured with the valuable companionship of the...
... Rev. David Hinderer, of the Church Mission, whose station is there; an inestimable advantage which, however, I did not enjoy.
Among the many large towns in the better known parts of Yoruba enjoying perfect independence, but paying a nominal allegiance to the king at Awyaw, Ibadan,...
... approaching if not equal to Abbeokuta in size and extent, ranks unquestionably first in actual power: they are the soldiers, the fighting tribe of Yorubans ; and of this I had perpetual and often painful evidence throughout my journey.
I passed the interval from my arrival at Ibadan until the 8th June under the hospitable roof of Mr. Hinderer, resting my horse and attendants, making observations, and collecting information about the country eastward.
I learned that an army of Ibadan was in that direction, and knew that an army from Ilorin was also there marauding and rendering the country impassable; and all my informants were of opinion that this would obstruct my progress, which, indeed, proved to be true.
I left the Iwo gate, an eastern one, of Ibadan, at 8 a.m. of the 9th June for Agbom. After passing through the cultivated ground which extends for many miles around Ibadan,...
... and then for some miles through forests, and after accomplishing altogether I estimate s.s.e. (compass), 15', we arrived at the river Oshun.
This point is 5 or 6 miles below its confluence with the Obba, and here I found it a considerable river about 100 yards broad ; we crossed in a canoe, and swam the horse. This river is the Palma of the charts, falling into the lagoon east of Lagos.
It is reported to me to have many rocks in it, and that no canoes traffic on it. From this point of crossing to Ekpe (Kosokos' head-quarters) is a day and a half's journey;...
... and notwithstanding this account of it, it may prove a practicable and speedier medium of communication with Ibadan and East Yoruba and the sea, during a short time of the year, than that by the Ogun and Abbeokuta.
Ife, the reputed seat of idolatry, a large town occupying much ground upon pretty hills, and surrounded by others, presents now no features to render it remarkable above other Yoruban towns.
It is subject to and has an Ajele of Ibadan resident. The Mahomedan religion- is common in it, and it is just emerging from a fierce civil war.
On the death of a late king two factions arose — a legitimist against a slave party, which perhaps may be translated aristocracy versus democracy.
The last king had been a scion of and secretly favourable to the latter party, having in his lifetime enriched them with much advice and warning as to what would probably happen at his death.
The " slave " party have triumphed, and, occupying generally a large section of old l'fe called Modakake, the name "I'fe" is never heard; and that which should represent it is an extensive plot of ruins.
My first visit was to the Ajele, by whom I was conducted to the Modakake chief. He summoned his head men, and we had a long interview.
The noise and crowd were excessive, for this was the first visit of a European, and there seemed no ability to improve the matter.
Having explained my business, a long whispering and consulting took place as to what would be proper to give me. A goat, kola-nuts, and a few cowries were presented at intervals.
The old chief expressed satisfaction at my visit, gave orders about my lodging, &, when I left, accompanied by the crowd before mentioned, after requesting permission to pay him another visit on the following day.
In the evening the chief, with a few attendants, himself paid me a visit, bringing a present of eggs, &c. He is, I conclude, a weak-minded, spiritless old man,...
... evidently the instrument of stronger wills ; and he grew very importunate that I should give him some medicine " to keep the country good."
It was in vain I assured him that honesty, justice, and truth were the only specifics. To the last he believed I had something in my pocket that would ensure it, and that I was restrained from giving it to him by a want of generosity.
