There are plenty of days when you just can’t catch a wave. They’re busy. They want to do other things.
When the winds are blowing just perfectly from off shore and the waves are setting up just right though...
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Those are your waves.
Those are the times you have to just get on top of and ride all the way to shore.
2/
Me and the boy are settled into a long hang out for Monday Night Football.
Wings and then a few more wings.
No place to go. No rush to get there.
A clean wave. A perfect wave.
These you just have to ride.
They get more and more rare.
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