Thread by @PamirPioneers

Photos taken on the summit of the mysterious AK CHUKUR peak #Kyrgyzstan. Via the DECEPTION route.

The #KMCPamirPioneers 1st #firstascent.

Want to know how we got here?

THREAD😃

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth This is the whole team a few days earlier.

We are heading out from the relative comfort of Basecamp to the Bel Uluu Valley (between the mountains you see on the right).

Our packs are full of everything we'll need to set up ABC (advanced base camp) and do acclimatisation runs.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures We had become used to conditions near basecamp at 3,172m.

We present as evidence this photo of Emily cheerfully crossing the Bel Uluu river.

The Soviet maps listed our objective Ak Chukur at 4,970m.

To acclimatise we would need to spend nights sleeping higher up the mountain.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Day 1 AV ascended to 3700m then spent the day worried about being attacked by eagles.

The rest of the team continued to 4000m, where AS, SG&SH slept for the night. ET&JK descended to 3700m to sleep.

The eagles were a genuine concern. There were ten of them & they were MASSIVE😬

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Day 2 ET&JK climbed to 4250m, SG,AS,&SH climbed to 4500(ABC). Whole team slept at 4000m.

Equipment drop to ABC: Here's @StevieG_wonders on the Bel Uluu Glacier.

The grass ended at 4000m. First, monster Moraine then, at 4500 metres, shining pristine glacier under a bright sun.☀️

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Should have posted this further up the tweet thread really, but here's the Moraine. It's carried down the mountain by the glacier. Much of the rock was sharp & loose.

Quoting @StuartHurworth "It ate my boots".

The team were *extremely* happy to have decent mountaineering boots

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Morning of Day 3: 4000m we could see the route shining ahead.

ET&JK not yet acclimatised, so decided to descend & explore two unnamed valleys behind basecamp.(Spoiler: This led to the teams 2nd first ascent - MORE ON THIS LATER😃)

AS,AV,SG,SH were ready to go build ABC at 4500m

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures By the way, have you been wondering why we named the route DECEPTION?

Well, take a look at this photo of AK CHUKUR. See that massive peak on the right, it's base covered in glacier. That looks like the highest point on the landscape, yes? In fact NO.

DECEPTION.🧐🤨🤨🤔

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures AV, AS, SG, SH ascended to 4500m.

Everyone else went up the scree but @StuartHurworth decided to go his own special route up the rock face.

Oh and yes that is an eagle shadow circling overhead, thank you for asking.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures When you get to 4500m to build your advanced base camp, you must shift enough moraine to make a nice flat sleeping platform for your tent.

See that remarkably flat area in front of @AndyStratford68? It cost @StuartHurworth a pair of gloves.

Next day(4) would be a summit push!

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Well, it snowed.

Overnight.

All night.

It was... cinematic.

❄️😐❄️

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures We awoke to a winter wonderland.

It would be more correct to say we awoke *buried* in a winter wonderland.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures This is what basecamp looked like on the morning of day 4 by the way. Jared and Emily were below us having their very own Snow Day ❄️ 2 inches!

This is the view from the other side of the mountain, from this position Ak Chukur is *easy* to see - it's the highest visible point.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures This is how Bel Uluu Glacier Advance Basecamp looked on Day 4 morning.

Despite the vast amount of snow, we felt that conditions were still good for a summit push.

We cleared the snow off the tents, made sure ABC was left in a sensible state and made our way up the mountain.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures DECEPTION ROUTE GETS ITS NAME!

When summiting a mountain, we naturally want to ascend to the highest point. We thought that might be the peak on the right.

We pushed on until the route revealed itself.

The highest was in fact the distant peak in the middle.

DECEPTION🧐🤨🤨🤔

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures The snow made it easier to walk on the scree and walking up the glacier was straightforward.

This photo of @AndyMilesExped and @StuartHurworth on the Glacier was taken at 4850m.

It was a hot day and things got surprisingly warm.

Why yes, Andy is in fact climbing in thermals.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures There was however some mixed climbing towards the end of the route. There was quite a lot of powder snow over rubble and the weather was still on our side.

The crux pitch was led by @StevieG_wonders.

This is the final step before the summit.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Then, after all of the walking and planning and dreaming, all of a sudden, you are on top of the world.😃

That tower is as small as it looks by the way. It can only really fit a @StevieG_wonders on it.

No, wait...

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures That tower is 2m square. That's plenty of room for both a
@StevieG_wonders and an @AndyStratford68!

At this point @AndyMilesExped and @StuartHurworth
were patiently waiting for their turn on the summit of Ak Churur.

And by patiently waiting we mean...

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures @StuartHurworth was taking some quite seriously epic selfies.

You can see the approach behind him and really see the steepness of the route we had taken.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures @StuartHurworth was standing right on the edge here and (we're told) scaring himself a little bit. But when you're that high, how can you resist looking down?

Yes this is a lot of selfies. Stuart knows how to have a good time. 😎

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Here's one of @StuartHurworth just below the summit looking southeast towards the pamirs over the Kyrgyz-Tajik border.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Then it was @AndyMilesExped and @StuartHurworth's chance to sit on top of Ak Chukur.

Interestingly the GPS told us we were at 4,958m and not the 4,970m expected from the soviet maps.

We don't have a photo of it but there was even an eagle circling overhead.

Beautiful.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Typo. The mountain is actually called Ak Chukur. Argh🙂

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Ak Chukur: First ascent 19 Aug '19
GPS: 4,958m (Soviet map 4,970m)
Route: Deception Route (SW Glacier)
Grade: PD
Climbers: SG AS SH AV
Lead (ABC to summit): SG
Approach: Bel Uluu Valley 3day climb from BC to ABC
Summit climb: 7.5hrs
Sunny, partial cumulus ~6” fresh overnight snow

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures The view from the summit.

A perfect climbing day.

Which was about to get slightly odder, although we did not know that yet.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures We prepared to abseil off the summit.

As we abseiled down we looked back up at the summit and saw what can only be described as some sort of MOUSE-FERRET perched majestically on the summit, looking directly at @AndyMilesExped.

It had come from nowhere.🐭

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures We believe our MOUSE-FERRET was in fact a Mountain Weasel

all-about-ferrets.com/mountain-wease…

He ran down the abseil, past Stuart.

Nobody was quick enough to take a photo.

We were too surprised.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures The summit of a mountain is a great place to take a photo of your Basecamp by the way.

That's the Altyn-Daria river winding a gorgeous blue ribbon across the foreground.

We wondered if Emily and Jared were down there or out on a recce somewhere else.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Although it was honestly very steep and it was definitely time to make our way back to Advanced Base Camp.

That's @StevieG_wonders foot in the top left by the way.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures We made swift progress back down to Advanced Base Camp.

Here's a photo of Andy V following our tracks back down.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Looking back up at Ak Chukur we could see that the snow had already melted on the scree. The only white remaining in the photo is glacier.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures Our first sight of Advance Base Camp, coming back down the mountain.

The snow had almost completely melted.

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures It was time to pack up our things, shake down our tents and join our friends at Basecamp.😊

@ClubKMC @MONTANEuk @ExpeditionFoods @mef_org @thealpineclub @Team_BMC @FieldNotesBrand @Rohantime @AndyMilesExped @StevieG_wonders @AndyStratford68 @StuartHurworth @Tinkadventures But wait!

Remember that Jared and Emily @Tinkadventures had gone down the mountain to recce other peaks? This ultimately led to the teams next first ascent!

Tune in next time to hear all about the ascent of our cutest-named mountain: Pik A-Boo!*🏔️😆

*Pik is Russian for Peak