Thread by @TwillAndTweed

Alright, this has been requested, so let's do a thread on acceptable footwear for suits.

I'm going to try to be as comprehensive as possible, but ask questions if you think I've missed something. 1/20

Let's start at the most basic: anatomy of a shoe. This graphic does a good job labeling everything so the subsequent tweets make sense.

Oxfords are distinguished by their closed lacing system. Generally, this means the the quarter is stitched under the vamp.

Both derbies and Bluchers have open lacing, they only differ in the size of the attached leather piece to make the open lacing.

The difference between derbies and Bluchers is not that important, they're the same for most purposes.

Derbies are a more casual shoe, and while they can be worn with a suit, it's better to wear a more formal oxford.

Now, onto types of oxfords.

In order of formality, the different types of oxfords are:

1. Whole cut
2. Cap-toe
3. Adelaide

The term brogueing refers to perforations of the leather to create a design.

4. Quarter brogue
5. Semi-brogue
6. Brogue/wingtip

Design is not the only thing that affects formality, color and material do as well.

Generally the darker the color the more formal. Black is the most formal, but chocolate brown is acceptable in almost all business settings.

Mid-brown is less formal, but very popular. Tan/orange is very informal.

Now to material. The less texture, the more formal the material.

1. Smooth calf skin/shell cordovan
2. Suede
3. Pebble grain

4. Exotic leather
5. Braided

Shoes with more than one material in the construction are inherently less formal.

Dress shoes for formal environments should avoid:

1. Contrast soles
2. Contrast stitching (stitching to attach the sole to the upper that does not match the upper)
3. General clunkiness

In the fall and winter, boots are also acceptable to wear with suits, but they need to be dress boots. Wearing normal boots with a suit will look bad, as they are normally clunkier and have contrast stitching.

Types of dress boots to wear with suits

1. Balmoral (oxford of boots)
2. Derby
3. Chelsea (the kind they made fun of Rubio for)
4. Jodphur

OK, now onto monks. There are two kinds, double and single. Either are acceptable office wear, but they are less common and you will get some looks. There are two kinds of single monks.

Onto shoes you can wear with suits, but shouldn't in a business environment. There are two kinds, loafers and sneakers.

Many men swear by loafers, it's no my style, but they are supposed to be comfortable and make any suited look more casual. There are several types:

1. Penny
2. Bit
3. Tassel

4. Lace
5. Whole cut/slipper

Now, sneakers with suits.

It can be done and done well, but it requires the right sneakers and a ton of confidence. I wouldn't recommend it for amateurs, but if you insist on trying it, please wear it like the left picture and not a pair of basketball or running shoes.

Lastly, Cole Haan Original Grands. These things are a bit like a dress shoe, but with a sneaker heel. Don't wear these with suits. They are an interesting casual choice, but are not formal enough to wear with a suit, no matter how many people you see do it.

I think that's a wrap. I'm sure I missed something, so just ask if you have any more questions. I hope people get something out of this;, if you do, I can do threads on other subjects in the future. 20/20