Thread by @MakeupForWOC

Cosmetic Chemistry Thread of The Ordinary products ✨ RT TO SAVE A LIFE!

First, let’s ask the question, “Who is The Ordinary?”

“The Ordinary is an evolving collection of treatments offering familiar, effective clinical technologies positioned to raise pricing and communication integrity in skincare.”

“The brand was created to celebrate integrity in its most humble and true form. Its offering is pioneering, not in the familiar technologies it uses, but in its honesty and integrity.”

“The Ordinary is born to disallow commodity to be disguised as ingenuity. The Ordinary is ‘Clinical formulations with integrity.’”

The Ordinary is owned by Deciem who owns multiple brands like Hylamide and NIOD.
• Cruelty free, not sold in mainland China.
•Available at Sephora
• All of The Ordinary formulations are made by their in-house team of bio-chemists and materials-chemists in their own lab

The price range is from $3.95-$28.90.

What they’re formulated without:
parabens, sulphates, mineral oil, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, animal oils, coal tar dyes, formaldehyde, mercury, oxybenzone.

How The Ordinary stays so cheap:

“Our Vitamin C Powder [costs $5.80] is the best example. There are about 20 cents of vitamin C in it, and about 5 to 6 cents of other ingredients, and then the tube is about 20 cents and the box is about 10 cents. I mean, the product costs less than a dollar.” - Brandon Truaxe

The Ordinary has 5 retinoid products available.

Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane
Targets: Signs of Aging, Textural Irregularities.
Format: Anhydrous (w/o water) Solution
Regimen Step: Before Oils/Creams
Conflicts: Do not use with other retinoid treatments.
Time of Use: PM Only

Ingredients: Squalane (Emollient), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Emollient; Anti-microbial), Bisabolol (Soothing), Dimethyl Isosorbide (Delivery system), Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Retinoic Acid), Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

Bisabolol: One of the principal active compounds found in chamomile. It is largely responsible for chamomile’s anti-inflammatory and anti-spasmodic effects.

Squalane: Derived from olives, squalane is an emollient, desensitizing agent and nourishing.

Emollients are “fatty” materials (from oils or fats) used to lubricate and moisturize the skin. They can act as either vehicles or performance ingredients.

As vehicles, they help product spread and keep other substances on the skin. As performance ingredients, they lubricate the surface of the skin & guard barrier function. They lie on top and trap water in (occlusion).

Granactive Retinoid (Dimethyl Isosorbide and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate): According to Grant Industries, Inc., this is a concentrated anhydrous matrix containing 10% of the pinacolyl ester of all-trans retinoic acid in a premium delivery solvent.

Granactive Retinoid is allegedly one of the most bio-available, non-prescription forms of Vitamin-A sold in cosmetics and decreases the effects of UV induced skin damage and helps clear acne related symptoms.

According to the manufacturer's tests, 24 hours of an occlusive patch with 0.5% HPR resulted in significantly lower irritation than 0.5% retinol. Also, there was a "dramatic reduction of lines and wrinkles" after applying 0.2% HPR around the eyes twice a day for 14 days.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil: A widely used non-comedogenic oil derived from a desert shrub; healing. A smoothing emollient, moisturizer and lubricant.

Granactive Retinoid 2% is also water-free, alcohol-free, silicone-free, nut-free, vegan, gluten-free, cruelty-free, contains oil.

Retinol 0.2% in Squalane
Targets: Signs of Aging, Textural irregularities
Format: Anhydrous (w/o water) Solution
Regimen Step: Before Oils/Creams
Conflicts: Do not use with other retinoid treatments.
Time of Use: PM Only

Ingredients: Squalane (Emollient), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Solvent/Dispersing Agent/Emollient), Retinol (Antioxidant), Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT (Preservative)

Squalane: Derived from olives, squalane is an emollient, desensitizing agent and nourishing.

Retinol: A vitamin A derivative. Stimulates cell pair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells. Vitamin A is an antioxidant and has exfoliating properties. It can reduce the appearances of fine lines, of photo damage and of general skin aging.

Warning: Retinol can cause significant irritation, redness and peeling, especially around the eyes and mouth, in the early stages of treatment while skin builds tolerance.

If you have not used high-strength retinol formulas in the past, The Ordinary recommends that you start your retinol regimen w/ their Retinol 0.2% in Squalane and adjust to higher strengths of Retinol 0.5% in Squalane and Retinol 1% in Squalane as your skin builds tolerance.

Retinol 0.2% is also water-free, alcohol-free, silicone-free, nut-free, vegan, gluten-free, cruelty-free, contains oil.

Other Retinoid products: Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane ($13.90), Granactive 2% Emulsion ($9.80), Retinol 0.5% in Squalane ($5.80), Retinol 1% in Squalane ($6.70)

Antioxidant: Alpha Lipoic Acid 5% ($6.80)
Targets: Dullness, Signs of aging, Antioxidant support
Format: Anhydrous (w/o water) Solution
Regimen Step: After Water-Based Serums
Time of Use: 2-3 times a week, PM

Ingredients: Propanediol, Thioctic Acid (Alpha Lipoic Acid)

Propanediol: Can enhance the absorption of ingredients (such as salicylic acid) into the skin. It can be derived naturally (from corn) or synthetically. It has hydrating properties that leaves a smooth, dewy finish. It’s a well-tolerated ingredient, unlikely to cause sensitivity.

Alpha Lipoic Acid: A natural molecule found in every cell in the body. It is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil. This antioxidant increases cellular metabolism. It is also anti-inflammatory and reduces redness.

AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution ($7.20)
Targets: Dullness, textural irregularities
Format: Water-based serum
Regimen step: Use as a masque and and rinse off
Time of use: 1-2 times a week, ideally PM
UV Protection Recommended

Ingredients: Glycolic Acid (Exfoliant), Aqua (Water), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water (Humectant), Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjuster), Daucus Carota Sativa Extract (Carrot Seed Oil, Emollient), Propanediol (Solvent), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine (Emulsifier) (1/4)

Potassium Citrate (pH adjuster), Lactic Acid (Exfoliant), Tartaric Acid (Exfoliant), Citric Acid (Exfoliant), Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer (Hydrator), Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract (Soothing), Glycerin (Humectant) (2/4)

Pentylene Glycol (Preservative), Xanthan gum (Thickener), Polysorbate 20 (Surfactant), Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Chelating Agent) (3/4)

Potassium Sorbate (Preservative), Sodium Benzoate (Preservative), Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative), 1,2-Hexanediol (Preservative), Caprylyl Glycol (Preservative) (4/4)

Quick vocabulary breakdown:

Preservatives: Functional ingredient that prevent bacteria from living in a product. Without them, products could be contaminated with bacteria, fungi, molds.

Chelating agent; improve the efficiency of the preventative. They break down the cell walls of bacteria. Ex: Disodium EDTA, Trisodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA

Emulsifiers: prevent ingredients from separating into layers.

Glycolic Acid: An alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugar. It helps to break down the bonds between the cells, brightens the skin for hyperpigmentation, and acts as a strong degreasing agent. Overuse can cause dehydration and an overproduction of sebum.

Lactic Acid: An alpha hydroxy acid derived from sour milk. It breaks down the bonds between cells to allow for easier exfoliation of dead surface cells. It also hydrates the skin, is antimicrobial, regulates skin pH and is a tyrosinase inhibitor. It naturally exists within us

Citric Acid: An alpha hydroxy acid derived from citrus fruits. It exfoliates the surface of dead skin cells. It’s epidermal thickening, anti-aging, and skin brightening. It increases hyaluronic acid in the skin; helping the skin attract and hold moisture effectively

Citric Acid is a low percentage is also used as a preservative.

Salicylic Acid: It is a beta hydroxy acid and a keratolytic. It’s an effective anti-acne ingredients. It cuts down on the shedding of cells within the follicles reducing impactions.

Salicylic acid is also lipid (fat) soluble making it easier to penetrate in to the liquid plug in congested follicle. It’s antimicrobial. Do not use if allergic to aspirin.

Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid): A naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan that helps retain water in skin. It plays an important role in cell protection, lubrication and maintenance of the structural integrity of tissues

Mandelic Acid 10% + HA ($6.79)

Targets: Dullness, uneven tone, textural irregularities
Format: Water-based serum
Regimen step: Before Oils/Creams
Conflicts: N/A
Time of use: Ideally PM
UV Protection Recommended

Ingredients: Propanediol (Solvent), Aqua (Water), Mandelic Acid (Exfoliant), Glycerin (Humectant), Dimethyl Isosorbide (Thickener), Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer (Hydrator), Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract (Soothing), Pentylene Glycol (Emollient) (1/2)

Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifier), Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjuster), Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative), 1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent), Caprylyl Glycol (Emollient). (2/2)

Mandelic Acid: An AHA sourced from bitter almonds. It treats hyperpigmentation. It is gentler than other AHAs because its molecular weight is larger than other AHAs.

Due to its larger size, mandelic acid penetrates the skin more slowly which in turn makes it very gentle.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer (Hyaluronic Acid): A form of hyaluronic acid that boosts the skin's moisture content for a plump, supple, and smooth appearance. It plays an important role in cell protection, lubrication and maintenance of the structural integrity of tissues.

Lactic Acid 5% + HA ($6.50)

Targets: Uneven tone, textural
Format: Water-based serum
Regimen step: Before oils/creams
Conflicts: N/A
Time of use: Ideally PM

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Lactic Acid (Exfoliant), Glycerin (Humectant), Pentylene Glycol (Emollient), Triethanolamine (Ph Adjuster; Emulsifier) , Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer (Humectant), Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract (Soothing), Arginine (Antioxidant) (1/3)

Potassium Citrate (Bufferer; Chelating Agent), Acacia Senegal Gum (Thickener), Xanthan Gum (Thickener; Emulsifier), Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Preservative), Ppg-26-Buteth-26 (Emulsifier) (2/3)

Ethyl 2,2-Dimethylhydrocinnamal (Fragrance), Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative), 1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent), Caprylyl Glycol (Preservative) (3/3)

Lactic acid: An alpha hydroxy acid derived from sour milk. It breaks down the bonds between cells to allow for easier exfoliation of dead surface cells. It also hydrates the skin, is antimicrobial, regulates skin pH and is a tyrosinase inhibitor. It naturally exists within us

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer: A form of hyaluronic acid that boosts the skin's moisture content for a plump, supple, and smooth appearance. Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan that helps retain water in skin.

It also plays an important role in cell protection, lubrication and maintenance of the structural integrity of tissues.

Tasmanian Pepperberry: a botanical extract that reduces the irritation associated with acid use.

Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution ($8.70)
Targets: Dullness, Uneven Tone, Textural Irregularities
Format: Water-Based Serum
Regimen Step: After cleansing, before serums
Time of Use: Ideally PM

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Glycolic Acid (Exfoliant), Rosa damascena flower water (Moisturizer), Centaurea cyanus flower water (Moisturizer), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water (Humectant), Propanediol (Solvent), Glycerin (Humectant), Triethanolamine (pH Adjuster) (1/5)

Aminomethyl Propanol (pH Adjuster), Panax Ginseng Root Extract (Toner), Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract (Soothing), Aspartic Acid (Emollient), Alanine (Emollients), Glycine (Amino Acid), Serine (Amino Acid), Valine (Amino Acid), Isoleucine (Amino Acid) (2/5)

Proline (Amino Acid), Threonine (Amino Acid), Histidine (Amino Acid), Phenylalanine (Amino Acid), Glutamic Acid (Amino Acid), Arginine (Amino Acid), PCA, Sodium PCA (Emollient), Sodium Lactate (pH Adjuster), Fructose (Humectant), Glucose (Humectant), Sucrose (Humectant) (3/5)

Urea (Humectant/Preservative), Hexyl Nicotinate (Emollient), Dextrin (Binder), Citric Acid (pH adjuster), Polysorbate 20 (Preservative), Gellan Gum (Viscosity controlling), Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Chelating Agent), Sodium Chloride (Thickener) (4/5)

Hexylene Glycol (Surfactant), Potassium Sorbate (Preservative), Sodium Benzoate (Preservative), 1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent), Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant). (5/5)

Glycolic acid: An alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugar. It helps to break down the bonds between the cells, brightens the skin for hyperpigmentation, and acts as a strong degreasing agent. Overuse can cause dehydration and an overproduction of sebum.

Tasmanian Pepperberry: a botanical extract that reduces the irritation associated with acid use.

Salicylic Acid 2% Solution ($5.30)
Targets: Lackluster Tone, Appearance of Blemishes
Format: Water-Based Serum
Regimen Step: After cleansing, before creams
Time of Use: AM and PM

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf (Witch Hazel) Water (Astringent), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine (Emulsifier), Salicylic Acid (Exfoliant), Dimethyl Isosorbide (Thickener), Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Chelating agent), Citric Acid (pH adjuster), (1/2)

Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifier), Hydroxyethylcellulose (Thickener), Ethoxydiglycol (Solvent), Potassium Sorbate (Preservative), Sodium Benzoate (Preservative), 1,2-hexanediol (Solvent), Caprylyl Glycol (Emollient) (2/2)

Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 ($6.80)
Targets: Hydration, Skin Repair
Format: Water-based serum
Regimen Step: Before oils/creams
Conflicts: N/A
Time of use: AM & PM

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Sodium Hyaluronate (Hydrator), Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer (Hydrator), Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract (Algae), Glycerin (Humectant), Pentylene Glycol (Solvent; Emollient), Propanediol (Thickener), Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6(1/3)

Ppg-26-Buteth-26 (Emulsifier), Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Emollient), Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Chelating Agent), Citric Acid (pH adjuster), Ethoxydiglycol (Solvent), Caprylyl Glycol (Emollient), Hexylene Glycol (Surfactant), (2/3)

Ethylhexylglycerin (Emollient), Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Chlorphenesin (Preservative) (3/3)

Sodium Hyaluronate: This is a form of hyaluronic acid. It is naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan that helps retain water in skin. It plays an important role in cell protection, lubrication and maintenance of the structural integrity of tissues.

Panthenol (Vitamin B5): water-soluble vitamin that hydrates and nourishes the skin.

Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% ($5.90)

Targets: Regulates sebum, minimizes appearance of pores
Format: water-based serum
Regimen step: Before oils/creams
Conflicts: Pure Vitamin C (ELAA/LAA)
Time of use: AM and PM

(From what I’ve researched, Niacinamide & Vitamin C are fine together but if the product manufacturer says don’t, then don’t.)

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol (Skin replenishing; solvent), Zinc Pca, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum (Moisturizer), Xanthan Gum (Thickener; emulsifier), Isoceteth-20 (Emulsifier; solubilizer), Ethoxydiglycol (Solvent), Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): reduces the appearance of skin blemishes and congestion

Zinc PCA: Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid; balances visible aspects of sebum activity

Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA ($8.90)

Targets: Hyperpigmentation, dark spots
Format: Water
Regimen Step: Before Oils/Creams
Time of Use: AM and PM

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Alpha-Arbutin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (Thickener), Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Propanediol (vehicle), Ppg-26-Buteth-26 (Surfactant), Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Surfactant), Lactic Acid (Exfoliant), (1/2)

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Chelating Agent), Ethoxydiglycol (Solvent), Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Chlorphenesin (Preservative) (2/2)

Alpha Arbutin: a derivative of hydroquinone found in berries, wheat & pears. It’s an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation, and displays less cytotoxicity than HQ.

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate: This is a form of hyaluronic acid. It is naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan that helps retain water in skin. It plays an important role in cell protection, lubrication and maintenance of the structural integrity of tissues.

Anti-Aging Regimen using The Ordinary:
AM: “Buffet”, Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
PM: "Buffet", Granactive Retinoid 2% or 5% in Squalane, 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil

Dehydration Regimen using TO:
AM: Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
PM: Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, 100% Plant-Derived Squalane or 100% Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil or 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Moroccan Argan Oil

Hyper-Pigmentation
AM: Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, OR Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%
PM: Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA OR Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
*Retinoids, chemical exfoliants and other forms of Vitamin C also help with hyperpigmentation

Clogged Pores & Acne
AM: Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
PM: Salicylic Acid 2% Solution or Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
*If salicylic acid doesn’t work for you, lactic acid is a good replacement.

I haven’t done a full breakdown of TO’s Azealic Acid product, but here’s some info about that ingredient:

https://twitter.com/makeupforwoc/status/1124859041006669826?s=21