Thread by @Linterlicchio

I am going to add some tips for queer lady lawyers and anyone without a y-chromosome who is shopping for a traditionally masculine suit for the first time and doesn’t know what to look for or where.

Here are some tips for how to find each piece.

https://twitter.com/alittleleader/status/1176986660363538432

Jackets: Stay in the women’s section. “Men’s jackets” will likely fall differently on your body than on the mannequin. I always look like I’m swimming in them, even when they’re the smallest size.

A friend taught me a trick to identifying what will get you the look you want without trying on every “women’s blazer” in the store:

Shape is more important than button placement, or sometimes even size. Look for a right angle where the shoulder meets the arm.

A women’s blazer that looks boxy on a hanger will likely look masculine on you. If it looks flowy on the hanger, it will look flowy on you.

Rectangles > squares. Longer jackets, with less rounded corners under the buttons (where the fabric ends) tend to look more masculine.

I’ve had some luck at Zara, Banana Republic, H&M, Salvation Army, Mango, and once many moons ago at Forever 21. The department stores are trickier for masculine looking suit jackets.

Shirts: The men’s section is your friend (although I’m flat as a board, so this may not be true for everyone). Avoid “women’s shirts” if you can. You’ll be trapped in a sea of flowy blouses that don’t have collars stiff enough to fold over a tie.

Most “women’s shirts” are not long enough to tuck into pants, or they pop out every time you sit down. Which is a real problem when you’re not wearing a high waisted pencil skirt.

When shopping for shirts in the men’s section, look for a slim fit version of your size. Don’t freak out in the changing room when you can’t button the bottom button. Most “men’s shirts” aren’t going to fit both your waist and hips.

It doesn’t need to fit your hips because that part is tucked in. Just leave the bottom button undone. Your pants will cover it. You could also hem. But don’t take so much off that your shirt won’t stay comfortably tucked in when you sit down.

Pants: I generally stick to the women’s section, but a good tell on whether “women’s pants” will look masculine without having to try them on is to look for front pockets big enough for your cell phone, and back pockets that exist.

Shoes: Get them in the men’s section if any pair is small enough to fit you. Unfortunately your options are limited at department stores, but Payless usually has at least one or two options that fit. (I’m sure a bunch of 12 year old boys with bar mitzvahs to attend are my size.)

Sometimes you can find masculine shoes in the “women’s section.” But trust me, shoes designed for women are trash and once you convert you’ll never go back. It’s like shoe companies know how much pain we’re willing to tolerate, so they don’t even try. There’s no comparison.

Ties: You probably need something different than what your dad wears, or you might end up looking like Hugh Grant in Two Weeks Notice. Try to find a tie that is 2 3/4 inches at its thickest point. TJ Maxx and young men’s sections at department stores usually have some.

These ties are likely still too long. But @ROCassataMusic has a great YouTube tutorial on how to tie a tie if you’re short.

Everything else: TJ Maxx’s men’s section has a great selection of socks, belts, etc. in various sizes for low prices. If you’re feeling really wild, I got three tie clips online for like $9.

You can swap out the purse for a padfolio when you head to court: You have pockets now.

Thanks for this idea @alittleleader @LadyLawyerDiary

#WomeninMenswear #WomeninSuits #QueerFashion #QueerLawyers #LadyLawyerDiaries