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1. After 2 years of my monthly History Threads on Myanmar (Burma) issues (plus Andamans, Malaysia’s Bateks) this anniversary History Thread is about 1990s Burma borderlands as described in my 2nd book “Down the Rat Hole: Adventures Underground on Burma’s Frontiers” published 2005
2. Banned from Thailand in 1988 (described in my 1st book “Burmese Looking Glass”) I went to Burma’s other borders: Bangladesh, China, India, Laos. My purpose was to meet with, interview dissidents, fighters, traders, even children. And to investigate resource extraction issues.
3. My 1st visit to Bangladesh/Burma (Arakan) border was in 1991. I interviewed ABSDF students, Rakhine and other political dissidents incl. Communists and monks who sought refuge near Cox’s Bazaar & Teknaf. I met, interviewed the first Rohingya families who fled in ’91-92 exodus.
4. While I was in Cox’s Bazaar the April 29, 1991 cyclone struck, killing over 130,000 people, mainly around Chittagong and on Bay of Bengal islands. I went to devastated islands with a local group distributing aid to Buddhist & Muslim villagers. (note: #BhasanChar is not safe.)
5. Kachin State was off limits for foreigners & China border was too. I crossed it in 1991, rode horses through flooded forests with #Kachin Independence Army troops to reach GHQ Pajau. I interviewed children (who drew pictures for me) and I photographed KIO anti-opium campaign.
6. In 1992 I managed a very brief visit to Manipur, a restricted NE India state bordering Burma’s Chin St. & Sagaing Div. Manipur had India’s highest HIV/AIDS rate and I learned about the epidemic in neighboring Burma. Also met with Chin National Front representatives in Imphal.
7. Much had changed when I revisited Kachin Independence Org. GHQ Pajau in 1995. KIO had a ceasefire with Myanmar. Deceased Chairman Brang Seng replaced by Gen. Zau Mai (later deposed.) I interviewed women involved in the revolution and taught karate classes for women soldiers.
8. Determined to see the Mekong River border of Laos and Burma (Shan State) in pre-touristy 1995 Laos I traveled from Muong Sing to Xieng Kok on a salt truck. I took a speedboat across for a momentary Burma shore stop, then downstream to Huay Xai.
9. My 2nd Bangladesh trip was in 1998. Despite violent general strikes in Chittagong I met with exiled Rohingya and Chin leaders. I reached the newly open to outsiders Bandarban Hill Tracts, bordering Chin & Rakhine St.s and met ethnic groups including Chin-related Baum people.
10. My 3rd China - Myanmar (Kachinland) border trip was in 2002 to investigate resource extraction (timber, mining) the downside of the ceasefire period. At Chinese border town Pianma I photographed vast lumberyards: the forests of Kachinland were plundered by Chinese companies.
11. Post-1990s Bangladesh camps expanded as Myanmar genocide forced out Rohingya refugees. They continue to suffer without employment, education, communications. Rakhine, Chin, Mro, Khami also fleeing Tatmadaw military operations. #TroopWithdrawal needed. dhakatribune.com/opinion/op-ed/…
12. After 17 year ceasefire, the North War resumed in 2011 with new generation of Kachin troops fighting the Tatmadaw. 106,000 Internally Displaced People. Occupying Myanmar military have been grabbing land, taking over resources. #TroopWithdrawal needed. irrawaddy.com/opinion/guest-…
13. My Project Maje reports (including 1990s interviews) are at projectmaje.org as are links to my previous History Threads. For Burma/Myanmar researchers: my Project Maje hard copy archive (Burma 1980s-90s-early2000s) is in @yalelibrary SE Asia Collection.
14/14. You can request “Down the Rat Hole” (Orchid Press 2005) from your favorite neighborhood bookshop or order it from online booksellers. Suggested soundtrack: Cui Jian, R.E.M., "Kuch Kuch Hota Hai” (Udit Narayan, Alka Yagnik), Faye Wong, @PamTillis “Mi Vida Loca.”
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