Today @LouisaCasson and I visited Ulva, an island off the west coast of Mull, which was brutally cleared of people in the early 19th century. Back then its population was 600. Today its population is 6.
(A thread inspired by @gawanmac)
(A thread inspired by @gawanmac)
2/ Ulva is a wind-trammelled expanse of heathland, bog and deciduous forest reached only by a tiny ferry that you summon by sliding an old wooden sign to reveal a red flag.
3/ ‘Ulva’ is a Viking word meaning ‘Wolf’s island’. It has been inhabited by people since prehistoric times, who hunted the deer, and Neolithic remains have been found on the isle.
4/ Whales have also been hunted by previous inhabitants, as this whale-bone archway shows.
5/ The island is now, however, a haven for wildlife.
6/ We saw what appeared to be temperate rainforest, with beech and birch carpeted in mosses and epiphytes, their verdant green leaves almost luminous in the spring light.
7/ But the island also harbours a dark history. In the Napoleonic wars, a kelp burning industry developed here, processing the abundant seaweed to make potash, used to make glass, soap & chemicals. The population grew greatly.
8/ Once the wars ended, however, foreign supplies of potash were restored and the kelp industry collapsed. The owner of Ulva, Francis Clark, brutally cleared the population off the island to make way for sheep. Homes were left to crumble.
9/ The bleak remains of 16 townships can be seen around Ulva today. ‘Starvation Point’ is where the elderly were herded to be left to die.
10/ The island’s chapel is still standing, but is now in a state of decay.
11/ Mould grows on the pulpit. The floorboards are cracking. The last collection was held in 2011.
12/ But Ulva’s fortunes are slowly changing. After centuries of overgrazing by sheep and deer, new native forests are being established behind deer-proof fences - funded by the EU.
13/ And the last surviving family - who run the thriving Boathouse cafe (@boathouseulva) - have been coordinating a community buy-out of the island from the private owners, to regenerate Ulva’s population, business and community.
14/ We discovered, to our delight, that the day of our visit to Ulva coincided with the successful conclusion of the community buy-out of the island! -
15/ Over 500 people from around the world helped the community purchase Ulva. We cadged a lift back to where we were staying on Mull with a PhD student from the US studying community land trusts, for whom Ulva is another inspiring example amongst many in Scotland.
16/ We really recommend visiting this amazing island with its stunning wildlife, dark history and brighter future.
And follow @Ulvabuyout & @boathouseulva :)
And follow @Ulvabuyout & @boathouseulva :)
