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1) Architectural Odyssey - Thread on the Towering temples of Odisha - Kalinga variant of Nagara architecture.
Part I - City of temples...City of the lord of the universe. Living Temples of Bhuvaneshwar (or Ekamra Kshetra as it was known to ancients)
Part I - City of temples...City of the lord of the universe. Living Temples of Bhuvaneshwar (or Ekamra Kshetra as it was known to ancients)
2) Before starting, Here's some introductory threads on Nagara Temple Architecture. Go through them to get the basic knowledge of the North Indian temple architecture.
3) On the historical map of India, Bhuvaneshwar makes a very early entrance and that also on a grand scale. For it is in the outskirts of Bhuvaneshwar that we find the oldest inscription mentioning the word "Bharat varsh"
4) It is also here at Udaygiri and Khandagiri caves excavated some 2200 years ago that we see earliest glimpses of architectural legacy of Bhuvaneshwar
5) In the outskirts of Bhuvaneshwar one also finds the archaeological remnants ancient Kalinga nagari - very well planned ancient city of Maurya age built as par Shastric injunctions.
6) As such Bhuvaneshwar was already carrying a grand architectural and historical legacy even in ancient time.
No wonder then that when India stepped into Golden medieval period of temple building age, Bhuvaneshwar again made a grand entry.
No wonder then that when India stepped into Golden medieval period of temple building age, Bhuvaneshwar again made a grand entry.
7) This early phase of temple building activity in Odisha was led by benevolent rulers of Bhauma-Kara dynasty. Around 10th century it was replaced by Somavanshi dynasty who continued same trend.
Image: Royal seal of Bhaumakara dynasty depicting Nandi and Lotus
Image: Royal seal of Bhaumakara dynasty depicting Nandi and Lotus
8)Earliest surviving temples of Bhuvaneshwar are group of 3 temples - Named after brothers of great lord - Shatrughneshara (Best Preserved of three), Lakshmaneshwara & Bharateshwara.
Built around ~1400 years ago, this humble beginning was but the first step towards grand future.
Built around ~1400 years ago, this humble beginning was but the first step towards grand future.
9) That even at this early age there was profuse temple building activity can be attested by other early surviving temples in the streets of Bhuvaneshwara such as 1) Swarnajaleshwara and 2) Markandeyeshwara temples respectively
10) But one of the best preserved of early temples in Bhuvaneshwara is Parashurameshwara temple.
Built c. 850 AD it was originally named after Pashupata acharya Parasara - Parasareshwara. With time it changed its name to the current name of Parshurameshwara
Built c. 850 AD it was originally named after Pashupata acharya Parasara - Parasareshwara. With time it changed its name to the current name of Parshurameshwara
11) The Mukhashala/Jagamohana seen in the images above was common feature of early temples of the region
Profuse elaborate carvings including scenes from Ramayana & that of Odissi dance forms decorate the temple walls
Profuse elaborate carvings including scenes from Ramayana & that of Odissi dance forms decorate the temple walls
12) Vaital Deul - Built around the same time period as the one mentioned above this temple is dedicated to Devi Chamunda.
It is also different in the sense that it follows Vallabhi mode of construction or Khakhara deul as known locally.
It is also different in the sense that it follows Vallabhi mode of construction or Khakhara deul as known locally.
13)This mesmerizing carvings on the temples walls are more than 1200 years old!
Wroth mentioning is the 1st panel - Arya nari waiting at the door with her pet bird - very recurring theme of Kalinga art. Perhaps symbolizing wives of those Hindu sailors in far away lands!
Wroth mentioning is the 1st panel - Arya nari waiting at the door with her pet bird - very recurring theme of Kalinga art. Perhaps symbolizing wives of those Hindu sailors in far away lands!
14) Mukteshwara temple - With this temple begins the new phase in the history of temple construction in Bhuvaneshwar.
It not only shows continuity in evolution on past traditions but many new features appears here for the first time
It not only shows continuity in evolution on past traditions but many new features appears here for the first time
15) ...As if carved by the great Prajapati himself - Just divine...🙏
16) Mukteshwara also boasts one of the most popular Torana of Kalinga traadition.
Also note the Mukhshala (Front hall) - For the first time it incorporates features of Pedha Deul which we see in later gigantic temples of Odisha
Also note the Mukhshala (Front hall) - For the first time it incorporates features of Pedha Deul which we see in later gigantic temples of Odisha
17) Bhaskareshwara Temple - Built on early structure this temple remains a mysterious enigma of architectural history Bhuvaneshwar. And one can very well see it why!
18) Rajarani temple - Rajarani temple is a brief Kalingan romance with Shehari architecture - A variant of Nagara architecture that was & is popular in central and western India at the same time.
19) Temple is remarkable for its sculptural decoration.
Carvings of Dikpalas (Guardians of the direction) are especially worth mentioning. The images below are that of Agni and Varuna.
Carvings of Dikpalas (Guardians of the direction) are especially worth mentioning. The images below are that of Agni and Varuna.
20) Local legend states that Temple was never dedicated to any deity. The current name of the temple is probably inspired from the sculpture of Naga & Nagini on the front pillars.
What ever the case may be Nagas & Naginis wrapping around temple pillars soon became popular motif
What ever the case may be Nagas & Naginis wrapping around temple pillars soon became popular motif
21) Brahmeshwara Temple - This ~1000 years old temple is based on Panchayatana model (Main temple surrounded by 4 subsidiary shrines).
It was built at Sidhhatirtha of Ekamra Kshetra in 1060 AD by Kolavati devi - mother of Somavanshi king Udyota kesari
It was built at Sidhhatirtha of Ekamra Kshetra in 1060 AD by Kolavati devi - mother of Somavanshi king Udyota kesari
22) Once again same elaborate sculptural decoration thatone see with the Rajarani temple.
One particular panel to be highlighted is that of Acharya preaching to his disciples. Again a recurring theme in temples of Odisha. Also seen on temples of other parts of N. India as well
One particular panel to be highlighted is that of Acharya preaching to his disciples. Again a recurring theme in temples of Odisha. Also seen on temples of other parts of N. India as well
23)Temple building continued in Bhuvaneshwara. Rekha deuls started rising towards the sky and Kalingan architecture was rapidly moving towards perfection.
Temples such as 1) Siddheshwara temple & 2) Rameshawara temple built around the 10th century are testimony to that trend.
Temples such as 1) Siddheshwara temple & 2) Rameshawara temple built around the 10th century are testimony to that trend.
24) That goal was finally achieved in the monumental temple of Lingaraj - The king of all temples.
Built after the work of three generations of Somavanshi rulers, Lingaraja is culmination of thousands of years of experience into divine perfection.
Built after the work of three generations of Somavanshi rulers, Lingaraja is culmination of thousands of years of experience into divine perfection.
In terms of Vastushastra it contains all the four major portions of the fully developed temple of Kalingan tradition - Rekha deul, Jagamohana/Mukhashala, Natamandapa (Dancing hall) and Bhoga mandapa (Hall of offering)
26) The main Shikhara or Rekha deul reaches to the sky soaring height of 45 meters! Look at the humans in second image to get the idea of the monumentality of the temple
27) Equally sophisticated is artistic finishing of temple walls.
First image is my favourite. It is worth mentioning here that later day inscription on the temple wall mentions about rehabilitation of Sanyasis from Bengal into Bhuvaneshwar who were affected by Jihadi invasion.
First image is my favourite. It is worth mentioning here that later day inscription on the temple wall mentions about rehabilitation of Sanyasis from Bengal into Bhuvaneshwar who were affected by Jihadi invasion.
28) Subsidiary shrines were kept being added over time in the temple premises. The most important of them belongs to the consort of the Lingaraj - Devi Parvati.
In terms of its artistic and architectural beauty it marvels with that only of Lingaraja temple itself
In terms of its artistic and architectural beauty it marvels with that only of Lingaraja temple itself
29) Overall Lingaraj temple is perfect integration between the soaring height and finishing beauty achieving the divine perfection of monumental scale.
30) In many other northern states this perfection of temple architecture c. 11th to 13th century was the terminal point of the story.
Hurricane of Jihad abrupty wiped out that civilizational legacy worth thousands of years with its barbarian sword
Hurricane of Jihad abrupty wiped out that civilizational legacy worth thousands of years with its barbarian sword
31) The case of Odissa however is different. Like in the case of Vijayanagara, State of Odissa underwent rapid militarization.
Jagannatha was declared "Rashtra Devata" - State deity and Hindus were united under his banner.
Jagannatha was declared "Rashtra Devata" - State deity and Hindus were united under his banner.
32) First Muslim invasion of Odissa started in 1205 AD. However it was successfully repelled by Rajaraja III - Ruler of Eastern Ganga dynasty that was now ruling Odissa
Subsequent invasions were also repelled successfully.
Subsequent invasions were also repelled successfully.
33) By 1243 AD Narsimha Varman succeeded not only in protecting the country from Islamic invasions but even managed to penetrate deep inside Islamic territory in Bengal all the way upto its capital Gaur itself!
Image: Stone panel showing King Narasimha Varman practicing archery
Image: Stone panel showing King Narasimha Varman practicing archery
34) The period of relative internal security under the Eastern Ganga rulers led to the unprecedented amount of architectural activity - With Konark Sun temple and Jagannath temple at Puri being its most visible manifestation.
Same trend continued in the Bhuvaneshwar itself.
Same trend continued in the Bhuvaneshwar itself.
35) Heres magnificent Ananta Vasudeva temple was constructed in 1278 AD by princess Chandrika in honor of her husband & Commander in chief of Odiya army who lost his life while fighting a war against Jihadis
In land dominated by Shaivite temples it is only major Vaishnava temple
In land dominated by Shaivite temples it is only major Vaishnava temple
36) Once again Ananta Vasudeva temple wasn't the exception. Architectural history of the city saw new surge in the temple consturction around 13th century.
For eg this 700 years old Chitrakarini temple - looks as if work of some Chitrakar (Painter) himself!
For eg this 700 years old Chitrakarini temple - looks as if work of some Chitrakar (Painter) himself!
37) Other temples built c.12th and 13th century in Bhuvaneshwar follows the same artistic and architectural trend.
In terms of their sheer artistic and architecutral beauty they vie with each other for attention.
Images: 1) & 2) Sari temple 3) Megheshwar & 4) Bakareshwar
In terms of their sheer artistic and architecutral beauty they vie with each other for attention.
Images: 1) & 2) Sari temple 3) Megheshwar & 4) Bakareshwar
38) By 15th century Gajapati dynasty came in power. The same task of protecting the boundaries of the realm on behalf of the supreme ruler Jagannath was continued
In Bhuvaneshwar one of the last greatest temple - Kapileshwara was built by Kapilendra - founder of Gajapati dynasty
In Bhuvaneshwar one of the last greatest temple - Kapileshwara was built by Kapilendra - founder of Gajapati dynasty
39) Temple building continued in the sacred city of Bhuvaneshwar even after that. Entire town is studded with the temples in the most obscure street.
IT is truly named as the Temple city of India.
IT is truly named as the Temple city of India.
40) But there is more to this sacred city of the lord of the universe. It is the grand tribute to the eternal civilization.
Devotees still flock to its sacred ponds and temples, Flags are still fluttering and bells are still ringing in those temples
Devotees still flock to its sacred ponds and temples, Flags are still fluttering and bells are still ringing in those temples
41) On the Ashokashtami in Chaitra month Lord Lingaraj rides in his magnificent chariot along with Ananta Vasudeva and Devi Rukmini around the town and visits Rameshwara Temple... In same fashion as they used to do hundreds of years ago!
42) In the kitchen of Ananta Vasudeva temple - Satvik Mahaprasad is still prepared for the lord and his devotees, using same ancient techniques and recipes as our ancestors used to do hundreds of years ago! Yummy...
43) Here Temples are still bustling with the same classical music, Odisi dance and hymns of Odiya saints that has continued to charm the divine and human beings alike for thousands of years!
44) In essence its the time travel to the back in time. A Westerner goes to Rome to breath its antiquity buried in the past. for rest... you are smart enough to know what I am trying to stay...;)
