I did a 6-day tour of some of the important and interesting historical sites in and around Bhopal. My itinerary was largely based on inputs from @Hiddenheritage and the following books of Major General Sir Alexander Cunningham:
1. The Bhilsa Topes (1854)
1. The Bhilsa Topes (1854)
2. Report of a Tour in Budelkhand and Malwa in 1874-77, Vol. 10 of Annual report of Archeological Survey of India.
I will be sharing some of the interesting things that I saw.
Caution: This is going to be a very very very very long thread. Don't doze off!
I will be sharing some of the interesting things that I saw.
Caution: This is going to be a very very very very long thread. Don't doze off!
First stop - Indore Central Museum.
Note: my interests tend to be mostly around iconography. Hence, you might see an overdose of that.
Lakulisha - an revivalist of the ancient Pashupata sect. Iconographic hint - erect penis (urdhva-retah).
Note: my interests tend to be mostly around iconography. Hence, you might see an overdose of that.
Lakulisha - an revivalist of the ancient Pashupata sect. Iconographic hint - erect penis (urdhva-retah).
Worship of Lakulisha seems to have been popular at one point of time in Central India and he came to be known as an incarnation of Shiva. Here is an image of Gauri and what you will find interesting is that Lakulisha is present at the top (generally Shiva is present there)
A very interesting Kartikeya.
1. Note, he is 5-headed here.
2. Notice the 2nd peacock in his hand
I have noticed such fine Kartikeya in India Museum, Kolkata (linked tweet).
1. Note, he is 5-headed here.
2. Notice the 2nd peacock in his hand
I have noticed such fine Kartikeya in India Museum, Kolkata (linked tweet).
Varaha avatar. Bhudevi on the other side. Notice shanka, chakra and mace near the foot - iconographic details of Vishnu and his avataras. There is japamala at the other foot. Shouldn't it be lotus there?
"Vishnu Purana describes the munis as seeking shelter "amongst the bristles of the body of the boar". Perhaps in this last description we may have the origin of the common representations of the boar as covered with rows of Rishis", Cunningham (1874-77)
Broken Surya sculpture:
Notice the iconographic details:
1. Cloak and high boots
2. Lotus in his hands
3. Usha and Pratyusha on either sides with bows
There must have been a 7-horse driven chariot with Aruna as the charioteer at the bottom.
Who are those 6 characters beneath?
Notice the iconographic details:
1. Cloak and high boots
2. Lotus in his hands
3. Usha and Pratyusha on either sides with bows
There must have been a 7-horse driven chariot with Aruna as the charioteer at the bottom.
Who are those 6 characters beneath?
Hanuman. This representation might seem uncommon to South Indians.
Note: This is not in the midst of a garbage. This is Indore Central Museum courtyard. Sad state of affairs, I must tell you.
Note: This is not in the midst of a garbage. This is Indore Central Museum courtyard. Sad state of affairs, I must tell you.
Phew!
Second stop - Bhimbetka.
These are a series of rock shelters with cave paintings. Here we have cultural deposits starting from Paleolithic age up till early historic period.
Second stop - Bhimbetka.
These are a series of rock shelters with cave paintings. Here we have cultural deposits starting from Paleolithic age up till early historic period.
Chauvet caves in France are famous for these fine cave paintings but India has no less than 400 such caves just around Bhopal! What is allowed for public viewing are just 15 caves but these are jaw dropping.
How does my palm compare with the average size of a Paleolithic man?
How does my palm compare with the average size of a Paleolithic man?
I saw at least 2 representations of horses from Paleolithic period. Not sure how this fares against a popular belief among historians that horses came to India through the movement of Central Asian tribes (or Aryans).
Just to add here, I saw a horse-like terracotta figure from Harappa period at National museum, Delhi.
Prof. VS Wakankar is credited for the discovery of these caves. I have read somewhere that he spotted this unique looking hill while travelling in a train to Bhopal. I can't remember the source but what is true is that they are indeed visible from the train track next to the hill
Next stop - Ashapuri. Will tweet about them tomorrow.
In the line-up: Bhojpur, Sanchi, Eran, Pathari, Badoh, Vidisha District Museum, Udayagiri caves, Besnagar, Gyaraspur, Bhopal State Museum, vagera, vagera.
Good night!
In the line-up: Bhojpur, Sanchi, Eran, Pathari, Badoh, Vidisha District Museum, Udayagiri caves, Besnagar, Gyaraspur, Bhopal State Museum, vagera, vagera.
Good night!
Good morning! Rise and Shine!
Ashapuri, as it stands today is just piles of rubble from the ruins of at least 26 temples. Several fine sculptures are taken away and put in remote museums and a few in a museum located at the site (well it is actually looks like a godown).
Ashapuri, as it stands today is just piles of rubble from the ruins of at least 26 temples. Several fine sculptures are taken away and put in remote museums and a few in a museum located at the site (well it is actually looks like a godown).
In spite of all this, I saw few fine sculptures, lintels and door jambs lying in the open and covered by shrubs.
1. Vishnu
2. Saptamatrikas
3. Narasimha
This is the first remote site that my cab driver refused to take me to fearing dacoits. More to follow.
1. Vishnu
2. Saptamatrikas
3. Narasimha
This is the first remote site that my cab driver refused to take me to fearing dacoits. More to follow.
Bhojeshwar Temple at Bhojpur believed to have been built by Raja Bhoj is a contrast to other temples in this region. While rest of the temples were completely built, now in ruins and hence no active worship, this one was only half built and yet active worship continues 2 this day
On the outcrop of the rock around the temple are architectural drawings of the temple. This gives us a rare chance to look at how the stapathis used to plan the construction activity.
However, those drawings are fast eroding with algae formations. Conservation much needed.
However, those drawings are fast eroding with algae formations. Conservation much needed.
Just to give you a scale of this unfinished temple:
Man is tiny but his belief? Gargantuan!
Man is tiny but his belief? Gargantuan!
Next up - Sanchi aka Chaityanagari aka sha-chi.
I will not mention most things that are easily available to netizens rather focus on what I read in The Bhilsa Topes and what I noticed.
I will not mention most things that are easily available to netizens rather focus on what I read in The Bhilsa Topes and what I noticed.
Just a brief of The Bhilsa Topes: Basically, Cunningham writes this book to compile the discoveries made by Lieutenant Maisey and himself amongst the numerous Buddhist monuments that exist around Bhilsa. These include the stupas of Sanchi, Satdara, Suneri, Andheri and Murelkhurda
Cunningham writes about the importance of stupas, it's construction, it's kinds, life of Sakya Muni, rise, schism and fall of Buddhism, opening of various stupas, and goes on to great length talking about the inscriptions and reliefs on various stupas.
Cunningham classifies stupas into 3 kinds:
1. The Dedicatory, which were consecrated
to the Supreme Buddha
2. The strictly Funereal - contained the ashes of the dead
3. The
Memorial - built upon celebrated spots
1. The Dedicatory, which were consecrated
to the Supreme Buddha
2. The strictly Funereal - contained the ashes of the dead
3. The
Memorial - built upon celebrated spots
Having not found any relic caskets in Sanchi, Satdhara and Bhojpur, Cunningham believed that they are of the dedicatory type and consecrated for the Adi Buddha.
Dedicatory stupas have a pair of eyes on them. On the Eastern Gateway, left pillar you see a representation of this.
Dedicatory stupas have a pair of eyes on them. On the Eastern Gateway, left pillar you see a representation of this.
It seemed to me that the Jataka Tales were not available to Cunningham by the time of writing this book because he gets several bas-relief descriptions completely wrong and in few places confesses that he is unable to offer any explanation. For example- Mahakapi Jataka bas-relief
Cunningham's palaeographic brilliance comes out as he dates the gateways to the period of Satavahanas by looking at an inscription in the south gateway architrave.
This makes Cunningham come up with a great result in the field of Palaeography that ".... the age of any Indian
inscription may be determined approximately by the
forms of its alphabetical characters". Landmark achievement!
inscription may be determined approximately by the
forms of its alphabetical characters". Landmark achievement!
An amusing thing personally for me has been that at one time political residents of British and French wanted to carry Sanchi gateways to their own countries. After a lot of drama between the Begum of Bhopal, French and British, all they get to carry is a cast replica.
Source: Discovery of Ancient India by Upinder Singh.
When I visited V&A museum earlier this year, I saw a huge canvas painting depicting the casting of the gateway.
This meeting of several pieces of information from various sources gave me goosebumps.
When I visited V&A museum earlier this year, I saw a huge canvas painting depicting the casting of the gateway.
This meeting of several pieces of information from various sources gave me goosebumps.
While I did not get to see the cast replica of the gateway in the casting gallery, this painting at V&A London gave me a lot of satisfaction.
Wrapping up The Bhilsa Topes book, Cunningham goes into a romantic imagination of Sanchi's celebratory past and concludes with a beautiful poem of which I will share the last stanza here.
Udayagiri caves
The magnificent and famous Varaha panel. Varaha lifting bhudevi out of the ocean. Also notice, Ganga and Yamuna on their vahanas crocodile and tortoise respectively entering the ocean and they are welcomed by the king of the ocean.
The magnificent and famous Varaha panel. Varaha lifting bhudevi out of the ocean. Also notice, Ganga and Yamuna on their vahanas crocodile and tortoise respectively entering the ocean and they are welcomed by the king of the ocean.
Situated on a wild hillock next to the Halali river are a series of stupas of Satdhara. It is hard to comprehend how a place of such importance could have turned into wilderness as it is today!
This is an other site my cab driver refused to drive me to. After much persuasion he agreed for just this site and I had to give up on visiting Andher, Suneri and Murelkhurd which are present in equally wilder places. True to his apprehensions, I heard loud roars from a beast.
Wessanagara aka Besnagar
Here, Cunningham had lost a great opportunity to identify the now famous Heliodorous Pillar. The inscription was covered with a crust of vermillion and people refused to give access to Cunningham to examine it. Took 30 years more for ASI to decipher this
Here, Cunningham had lost a great opportunity to identify the now famous Heliodorous Pillar. The inscription was covered with a crust of vermillion and people refused to give access to Cunningham to examine it. Took 30 years more for ASI to decipher this
Udayeshwara temple of Udayapur is built entirely of "hard fine-grained sandstone" and Cunningham found this temple "in excellent preservation even after the lapse of 8 centuries". However, it was renovated by the Scindia Kings of Gwalior in 1929.
The north-west corner of the temple and western bedi was knocked down during the Tughlaq's rule and a masjid was erected. Couple of inscriptions inside the temple validate this.
Next up - Eran aka Yeran aka Erakaina
My cab driver completely lost his shit in taking me to this place. This village gets cut off from the world for 4 months during monsoons. The road is completely broken. Had to use an auto rickshaw and walk the last few miles.
My cab driver completely lost his shit in taking me to this place. This village gets cut off from the world for 4 months during monsoons. The road is completely broken. Had to use an auto rickshaw and walk the last few miles.
The village is surrounded on 3 sides by a river - hence a favourite spot for Hindus.
The antiquity of this place goes back to the rule of Samudragupta. Cunningham found several punch marked, inscribed, die-struck and cast coins revealing the continuity of habitation here.
The antiquity of this place goes back to the rule of Samudragupta. Cunningham found several punch marked, inscribed, die-struck and cast coins revealing the continuity of habitation here.
Behold the beauties of Eran!
The Eran Boar inscription of Toramana is found on the boar's neck.
The Eran Boar inscription of Toramana is found on the boar's neck.
Will tweet about Pathari, Badoh, Gyaraspur and Bhopal State Museum tomorrow, and hopefully wrap this up.
The Gadarmar Temple in Baro or Badoh is in much ruins today and stands in the middle of nowhere. Cunningham visited this place twice and when he later came, the condition of the temple had deteriorated.
"The best of the temple is its Toran gateway, which is a fine specimen of ornate workmanship". When I visited, u couldn't see the Toran and it only had one pillar in fine condition. Cunningham was very much right when he said "I am afraid that the whole gateway will soon fall,..
....as the heavy architrave seems to be chiefly supported by the single female figure now resting on the northern capital". The prediction came true.
At Gyaraspur, which must have been a town of considerable importance in the past, I saw the ruins of Hindola and Mala De Jain temples
I will wrap this thread by posting some fine sculptures from Bhopal State Museum. I have no hesitation on stating that this museum is one of the best maintained ones when compared to the few ones that I visited.
1. Kashi Pat - a map of Kashi with several Shiva, Vishnu, Ganesha, Surya deva and Shakti shrines. Notice Ganga passing through it and tortoises, crocodiles and fishes swimming through it.
I have seen a painting at V&A museum in London depicting the same.
I have seen a painting at V&A museum in London depicting the same.
2. Lajja Gauri
3. Ravana carrying Shiva and Parvati
4. Dvilinga Lakulisha
5. Gajasura samharam
3. Ravana carrying Shiva and Parvati
4. Dvilinga Lakulisha
5. Gajasura samharam
6. Beautifully carved Muruga (aka Kartikeya) holding cock (?). Notice the hairdo
7. Narasimha engaged in a malla yuddham. Notice how he tears apart the intestines (?)
8. Dikmamdala with Surya at the center and surrounded by all the stars, planets, zodiac signs, etc and resting on a snake. A very rare sculpture that I saw.
Phew! That brings this thread to an end.
As I wrap this, I'm wondering how Cunningham transversed these places almost 150 years back considering how inaccessible there places are to this day!
As I wrap this, I'm wondering how Cunningham transversed these places almost 150 years back considering how inaccessible there places are to this day!
As Prof. Upinder Singh writes, "Travelling on foot, horseback, elephant, camel, palanquin, and in later years increasingly by rail, the three-man (Cunningham and his 2 assistants) Archeological Survey of India scoured town and countryside for ancient sites and remains".
Together, they published 20 odd reports. This, my friends, was the humble beginning of ASI and the discovery of India's forgotten past.
Note that all these places mentioned are in a radius of just 100 kms. This tells us the abundance of heritage this country has!
Note that all these places mentioned are in a radius of just 100 kms. This tells us the abundance of heritage this country has!
Thanks for reading my #followingcunningham trip. Thanks again @Hiddenheritage for helping me with this travel and I'm indebted to Sir Cunningham for being my travel guide.
Forgot to add the picture of Kashi Pat. Here you go.
