Thread by @PatrickKingsley

This is one of the oddest pieces I've reported

A secretive group of celibate, middle-aged Iranian dissidents is holed up in a valley in ... Albania

They usually turn journalists away, sometimes quite aggressively

But when I turned up, they let me in

nytimes.com/2020/02/16/wor…

Where to start?

Perhaps with those who've escaped the MEK, and now live a sad life elsewhere in Albania.

I met 10 of them, who each described being brainwashed into a life of celibacy.

All recounted being forced to participate in daily Mao-style self-criticism rituals

The group began in opposition to the Shah of Iran in the 60s, played a role in his downfall in the 70s, and then fell out in the 80s with the mullahs who replaced him.

After they fled to Saddam's Iraq, their ideology began to revolve around their leader, Massoud Rajavi.

Founded in opposition to autocracy, the MEK became very autocratic itself. Formers members say it is extremely hard to leave. This film by the father of one member, Somayeh Mohammedi, suggests his daughter was coerced into staying

The group claims it's still popular inside Iran, but the consensus is that its base vanished after its militant campaign in the early 80s, and its alliance with Saddam during the Iran-Iraq war.

They are more popular among the many US pols paid to speak at MEK gatherings, who present them as a legit opposition. Some critics of the MEK are cross I wrote this, but it's just a fact. Their backers range from Rudy Giuliani + John Bolton to Howard Dean + Patrick Kennedy.

It's partly thru this lobby that the MEK moved to Albania. After the US invaded Iraq, they guarded the group until 2009, when they handed them to the Iraqi govt. Without US protection, they became a target for Iran-allied militia

Albania eventually gave them safe harbor in 2013

Once in Albania, they bought up a series of fields and built a highly securitised camp.

One of the few organisms allowed nearby is a 3-year-old brown cow called Lordi, who I met with @BesarLikmeta. Lordi grazes a field next to the wall.

This detail was cut from the lede.

Shortly after meeting Lordi, we tried our luck at the camp gates

In the past, this kind of approach has led to altercations with the guards

But on this afternoon, after deliberating for 3 hours, they let us in. @taratw, who took this photo, was admitted a few days later

They initially said we had 1 hour, but the tour ended up lasting 9. We left at 1:30am.

The main event was a highly staged-managed visit to the camp museum. It sets out the MEK's history as the MEK sees it.

The focus is on the torture & mass-executions of MEK members in the 80s

There were several mannequins and mises-en-scene to illustrate each trauma.

This sign says: "This is the waiting line for execution."

At every stage like clockwork, a survivor of the featured torture would appear on cue to explain how it felt to experience it.

For what it's worth, the testimonies were among the most horrifying I've heard from torture survivors anywhere.

The rest of the visit was spent interviewing about a dozen members of the group. At my request, this included Somayeh Mohammadi, without any minders. For what it's worth, she said she was there willingly.

Naturally, they all denied most of what is said about the group. They said celibacy, forced divorce & rejection of family life is just a necessary part of overthrowing the Iranian govt.
One admitted the self-criticism.
One admitted it, then corrected himself.
The rest denied it

The oddest moment came when I asked about Massoud Rajavi, who hasn't been seen since 2003, and whom former members say is the subject of cult-like reverence.

After I left, the MEK were keen I spoke to people from their hinterland of lobbyists and supporters. Among them were 3 former US officers, who helped guard the group in the 2000s. They spoke glowingly of the MEK.

But I was keen to find former US officials who no longer have ties with the MEK.

They told a very different story.

Read on for more:

nytimes.com/2020/02/16/wor…