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Who among us has been to Unye, which seems paradisal, Seinfeldian...

Chasing Anchovies on Turkey’s Black Sea Coast

“SO you’re here for anchovies,” said the bartender at Sehrazade, a shadowy spot in Unye, Turkey, a smile playing at 1/
the corners of his mouth.

With his boxer’s nose and stern mien, the beefy man looked more gangster than barkeep. But when I told him why I’d come to this small town on Turkey’s Black Sea coast, he showed a softer side. He nodded slowly and reached into his pocket for a phone.2/
Twenty minutes later a uniformed schoolboy burst into the bar (397A Hukumet Caddesi) with an aluminum baking pan. My new friend took the pan and placed it before me, removing its lid with a flourish and releasing a plume of steam. Inside was a little over a pound of lightly 3/
charred anchovies, each no longer than my pinkie, stacked dorsal fin to belly along wooden skewers.
“Eat, eat!” he urged, squeezing a wedge of lemon over the fish and dislodging them with a knife into juices pooling at the pan’s bottom. I never did learn where they came from 4/
(“a kitchen nearby” was all that he would reveal), but they were spectacular: fresh and firm, briny and pleasingly oily....
In the mid-1600s, the Ottoman traveler Evliya Celebi wrote that in the port of Trabzon, on the coast’s eastern half, “fishmongers at the wharf ... 5/
have special trumpets made of elder-tree wood. They only have to blow on these trumpets once and, by God’s dispensation, if people praying in the mosque hear it, they will immediately leave their prayer and come running for the hamsi.”
Full article is delightful 6/
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