The best summary was incidentally provided by a border guard at Heathrow, who said to me upon seeing my destination:
"Please tell your friends we are still European". /1
Main message: EU-27 are the priority, and Berlin is 100% behind Ireland. /2
Brexit now seems to be more and more an accepted reality, with less grudge.
The deep regret is still there, though with a willingness to look ahead. /3
In particular for UK officials clear that EU is a forum for exchange that they will miss. /4
The two countries will be living in different worlds - at next year's Königswinter, the UK will have left the EU. /5